Although I'm a New Yorker by nature, I was born in Washington, DC. I only feel nostalgic in early spring, when I used to visit the 3,000 cherry blossom trees. (This year, they're blooming April 1-April 12.)
Since I can't get down to DC and don't see a trip to Tokyo in the near future, I have something else in mind: the Cherry Blossom Festival at Sakagura! Starting April 10, my favorite NYC Japanese restaurant will be decorated with fresh cherry blossoms, and there will be a seasonal sake tasting on April 23. For more information, please call 212-953-SAKE (7253).
Tuesday, April 03, 2007
Monday, March 26, 2007
The Tasting Room NYC
I wanted to give an oenophile friend the perfect birthday dinner. After mulling (no pun intended) over the excellent Veritas and I Trulli, I instead brought her to The Tasting Room NYC, which features a visible wine cellar. What a wonderful choice this turned out to be!
We sat at a cork table in one of the large back rooms. Although there was an intriguing cocktail menu with exotic ingredients like Ceylon cinnamon, we each ordered a glass of wine. My friend ordered a woodsy Flying Vine red and I went with a glass of Gruet.
The menu at the Tasting Room is somewhat misleading; portions are available in both "tastes" and "shares," but a "shared" entree is really only enough for one person. We were quite hungry and knew that we'd each need both an appetizer and a large entree! I chose the creamy, rich Jerusalem artichoke soup with a small floating island of green garlic. In between bites, I poached from my friend's lemony mache salad, which included the fanciful addition of popcorn.
Our entrees were creative and comforting at the same time. My crispy-skinned ivory salmon arrived atop a bed of fluffy barley in an almond sauce. Although I couldn't taste much of the almond and initially thought the sauce was some sort of root vegetable puree, there was definitely butter in there - and I can never have too much butter!
My friend ordered the sturgeon, which was served in a bacon-accented broth of lentils de Puy and green lentil sprouts. The hefty slab of sturgeon was luscious and moist, and the green sprouts added crunch and lightness to the dish.
On the phone, I'd alerted the hostess to the fact that our table was a "birthday table." However, when we arrived at the restaurant, I neglected to tell her which one of us was the birthday girl! So, when the waitress came by with the dessert menus, I mouthed "birthday" as discreetly as I could, hoping she'd realize that the surprise was meant for my friend. Fortunately, everything went perfectly; a festive candle adorned my friend's warm chocolate cake with dulce de leche ice cream. Once again, I poached from her selection; my jar of chocolate-topped butterscotch pot de creme was excellent, but what I was thinking, not ordering the warm chocolate cake?!
The Tasting Room NYC: 264 Elizabeth St., (212) 358-7831. (NOTE: This location is closed as of June 2008. The original wine bar at 72 East 1st St. will stay open.)
We sat at a cork table in one of the large back rooms. Although there was an intriguing cocktail menu with exotic ingredients like Ceylon cinnamon, we each ordered a glass of wine. My friend ordered a woodsy Flying Vine red and I went with a glass of Gruet.
The menu at the Tasting Room is somewhat misleading; portions are available in both "tastes" and "shares," but a "shared" entree is really only enough for one person. We were quite hungry and knew that we'd each need both an appetizer and a large entree! I chose the creamy, rich Jerusalem artichoke soup with a small floating island of green garlic. In between bites, I poached from my friend's lemony mache salad, which included the fanciful addition of popcorn.
Our entrees were creative and comforting at the same time. My crispy-skinned ivory salmon arrived atop a bed of fluffy barley in an almond sauce. Although I couldn't taste much of the almond and initially thought the sauce was some sort of root vegetable puree, there was definitely butter in there - and I can never have too much butter!
My friend ordered the sturgeon, which was served in a bacon-accented broth of lentils de Puy and green lentil sprouts. The hefty slab of sturgeon was luscious and moist, and the green sprouts added crunch and lightness to the dish.
On the phone, I'd alerted the hostess to the fact that our table was a "birthday table." However, when we arrived at the restaurant, I neglected to tell her which one of us was the birthday girl! So, when the waitress came by with the dessert menus, I mouthed "birthday" as discreetly as I could, hoping she'd realize that the surprise was meant for my friend. Fortunately, everything went perfectly; a festive candle adorned my friend's warm chocolate cake with dulce de leche ice cream. Once again, I poached from her selection; my jar of chocolate-topped butterscotch pot de creme was excellent, but what I was thinking, not ordering the warm chocolate cake?!
The Tasting Room NYC: 264 Elizabeth St., (212) 358-7831. (NOTE: This location is closed as of June 2008. The original wine bar at 72 East 1st St. will stay open.)
Wednesday, March 14, 2007
Hummus Place
I had no idea that hummus and pita could be such a sensual experience. Today, I was on the Upper West Side debating whether I should pop into Fairway. I went one block over to Amsterdam, where I enjoyed an incredibly satisfying lunch special at Hummus Place: shakshuka accompanied by mint lemonade, puffy, hot fresh pitas and a hummus as sinful as peanut butter. Silky, warm, dusted with paprika, drizzled with olive oil and topped with a little heap of chick peas, the hummus was simply amazing!
The shakshuka was quite nice as well: two eggs over easy in a stew of tomatoes and green peppers, with sesame seeds and oregano liberally sprinkled. I ordered mine with the addition of salty halloumi cheese... I can't get enough of this stuff and would have appreciated even more of it!
How on earth did I miss this place?
Hummus Place: 305 Amsterdam Ave., (212) 799-3335 (Two Village locations as well).
The shakshuka was quite nice as well: two eggs over easy in a stew of tomatoes and green peppers, with sesame seeds and oregano liberally sprinkled. I ordered mine with the addition of salty halloumi cheese... I can't get enough of this stuff and would have appreciated even more of it!
How on earth did I miss this place?
Hummus Place: 305 Amsterdam Ave., (212) 799-3335 (Two Village locations as well).
Monday, March 12, 2007
Random Snacks
Here are a few items I always seem to be craving these days (no, not for any particular reason!):
Happy munching!
- Newtree Chocolate Napolitains: I especially love the "Young" cherry dark chocolates. There's been a sale on them at Really Cool Foods (3rd Ave. @ 63rd St., 212-605-0900), the gourmet shop which is a cross between Whole Foods and a public prep kitchen.
- Kyotofu's Miso Chokos: These were touted in NY Mag's Best Of New York issue, which neglected to focus on what I believe is the most unique thing about these fudgy little cupcakes: the miso! If you've ever enjoyed a drizzle of balsamic vinegar on your strawberries or your panna cotta, you'll enjoy the same slight astringence that miso brings to this chocolate treat.
- Brookfarm Snacmacs: Oven-roasted macadamias dusted with Kashmiri chili and sea salt. Available at Citarella! (I got mine at the 424 Ave. of the Americas location.)
- A stroke of absolute genius: the sea-salt espresso cookies at Cheeks Bakery (378 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn, 718-599-3583). If you appreciate fleur de sel caramels, you'll just eat these up.
And finally...
Happy munching!
Sunday, March 04, 2007
Brunch At Baci & Abbracci
Get me near a plate of complimentary biscotti, a brick oven, perfectly grilled seafood, and homemade torta della nonna, and I can't stay away. This weekend, a friend and I fell in love with a restaurant which fulfilled all of the above characteristics: Baci & Abbracci. (We also fell in love with Paolo.)
A wealth of possibilities lay before us as we sat down in the backyard patio this afternoon: sweet (omelette stuffed with Brie and apricot jam!), savory, brunch or lunch? We couldn't just choose one thing, so we started with butternut squash soup with two plump grilled shrimp and a salad with white beans, grilled scallops, calamari and shrimp with sweet red peppers. We also enjoyed slightly warmed walnut raisin rolls with apricot jam ("Great! Now I don't miss the apricot jam," said my friend, who had agonized over whether to try the aforementioned sweet omelette.)
We diverged in our entrees; I went with lunch: chewy, toothsome little beet gnocchi with sprigs of arugula in an intensely rich, creamy cheese sauce. My friend delighted in the asparagus frittata, served with large potato wedges and a small salad.
Now it was starting to grow chilly outside, so we retreated inside near the oven, where tiny chocolate coconut cookies were coming into existence. Naturally, we were compelled to order dessert. Paolo brought us over a plate of complimentary biscotti and cookies, but we also indulged in a healthy slice of custardy, pistachio-laden torta della nonna which was cross-hatched with chocolate cream. Yum!
Baci & Abbracci: 204 Grand St., Brooklyn, (718) 599-6599. Open for brunch on Saturday as well as Sunday.
A wealth of possibilities lay before us as we sat down in the backyard patio this afternoon: sweet (omelette stuffed with Brie and apricot jam!), savory, brunch or lunch? We couldn't just choose one thing, so we started with butternut squash soup with two plump grilled shrimp and a salad with white beans, grilled scallops, calamari and shrimp with sweet red peppers. We also enjoyed slightly warmed walnut raisin rolls with apricot jam ("Great! Now I don't miss the apricot jam," said my friend, who had agonized over whether to try the aforementioned sweet omelette.)
We diverged in our entrees; I went with lunch: chewy, toothsome little beet gnocchi with sprigs of arugula in an intensely rich, creamy cheese sauce. My friend delighted in the asparagus frittata, served with large potato wedges and a small salad.
Now it was starting to grow chilly outside, so we retreated inside near the oven, where tiny chocolate coconut cookies were coming into existence. Naturally, we were compelled to order dessert. Paolo brought us over a plate of complimentary biscotti and cookies, but we also indulged in a healthy slice of custardy, pistachio-laden torta della nonna which was cross-hatched with chocolate cream. Yum!
Baci & Abbracci: 204 Grand St., Brooklyn, (718) 599-6599. Open for brunch on Saturday as well as Sunday.
Thursday, March 01, 2007
Curly's Vegetarian Lunch: Chocolate-Chip Cookies Made To Order
Have you ever wanted to bake a batch of chocolate-chip cookies, but you couldn't stop yourself from eating all the dough? Or maybe you knew you were going to eat all the dough anyway, so you didn't even let yourself get as far as mixing the ingredients together. If you're not a raw dough fan, maybe you stopped yourself from making the cookies because you worried you'd eat them all.
Well, here's your perfect solution. The next time you have a craving for freshly baked chocolate chip cookies, but you just can't bring yourself to prepare them, go over to Curly's Vegetarian Lunch in the East Village. Curly's will bake you a minibatch of three cookies, so you don't have to feel guilty, and what's even better, you'll be served a small bowl of cookie dough while you're waiting for the finished product. (Vegans rejoice: if you don't want your cookie made with butter and eggs, just tell the server, and Curly's will happily make you a vegan cookie served with vanilla soy ice cream.)
Curly's Vegetarian Lunch: 328 East 14th St., (212) 598-9998.
Well, here's your perfect solution. The next time you have a craving for freshly baked chocolate chip cookies, but you just can't bring yourself to prepare them, go over to Curly's Vegetarian Lunch in the East Village. Curly's will bake you a minibatch of three cookies, so you don't have to feel guilty, and what's even better, you'll be served a small bowl of cookie dough while you're waiting for the finished product. (Vegans rejoice: if you don't want your cookie made with butter and eggs, just tell the server, and Curly's will happily make you a vegan cookie served with vanilla soy ice cream.)
Curly's Vegetarian Lunch: 328 East 14th St., (212) 598-9998.
Free Goodies!
Tonight, you can support Brooklyn's independent business community while enjoying treats from Williamsburg's own Cheeks Bakery and Baci & Abbracci! Where? At a free-admission party thrown by the UNSCENE Urban Navigator, held at 213 N. 8th @ Driggs from 8-midnight. (This should be fun; there will be Brooklyn Brewery beverages!)
Wednesday, February 28, 2007
Flatbush Farm
Farms are taking over Brooklyn! The Farm On Adderley, and now Flatbush Farm... a friend and I recently enjoyed a hearty meal at the latter. I'd missed St. Mark's Bistro, which formerly occupied the space, so I was happy to see a thriving restaurant once again.
We truly enjoyed our rich, hearty meal, but we felt that the dessert course was the least successful part. (How strange this is!) We began with a kuri (and curried) squash soup and an earthy chestnut soup with celery root and tender soft chestnuts. Then we were presented with a very rich preparation of striped bass, served with a sage cream sauce and buttery parsnips, and a delightful lamb stew with nicely browned potatoes and turnips.
The dessert of apple chestnut crepes seemed too savory and heavy. But this was the only sour note in an enjoyable meal, and the absence of empty tables indicated that Brooklynites are truly enjoying the harvest at Flatbush Farm.
Flatbush Farm: 76 St. Marks Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 622-3276.
We truly enjoyed our rich, hearty meal, but we felt that the dessert course was the least successful part. (How strange this is!) We began with a kuri (and curried) squash soup and an earthy chestnut soup with celery root and tender soft chestnuts. Then we were presented with a very rich preparation of striped bass, served with a sage cream sauce and buttery parsnips, and a delightful lamb stew with nicely browned potatoes and turnips.
The dessert of apple chestnut crepes seemed too savory and heavy. But this was the only sour note in an enjoyable meal, and the absence of empty tables indicated that Brooklynites are truly enjoying the harvest at Flatbush Farm.
Flatbush Farm: 76 St. Marks Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 622-3276.
Sunday, February 18, 2007
Sweets News
- Mary's Dairy, NYC's wonderful super-premium ice cream store, has just come out with a line of ice cream cakes! And just like everything else at Mary's, the ice cream cakes are made with ingredients of the highest quality: handmade buttercream, Valrhona chocolate pearls, and bittersweet chocolate ganache.
- Speaking of chocolate, you've got to check out the exotic confections of Rhonda Kave, founder of Roni-Sue's Chocolates. You can find these exciting truffles at Jeffrey’s at Essex Street Market (120 Essex Street, 646-269 6812). Try the Mint: Callebaut bittersweet chocolate ganache center blended with mint jam, peppermint powder and oil, Moroccan mint tea and Vandermint liqueur, or the festive Margarita: handmade marzipan blended with fresh lime curd, key lime juice and zest, pure agave tequila, kafir lime leaf and key lime zest, then drizzled with key lime chocolate and coarse sea salt flakes!
Thursday, February 15, 2007
Valentine's Day At Sakagura
Although Asiate is at the top of my list for romantic restaurants (what a view!), a cozy, dim nook in the back room of Sakagura is pretty romantic too. And since my companion and I are in love with Sakagura, it was only fitting that we spent Valentine's Day there, enjoying the special prix fixe dinner.
In Japan, Valentine's Day is something of a Sadie Hawkins affair. (White Day, which is celebrated on March 14, was created to balance things out. On Valentine's Day, women give men a gift (usually chocolate); men reciprocate on White Day.) This Valentine's Day, it was almost impossible not to give someone a piece of chocolate... Hershey representatives were out in force around Grand Central Station, handing out free samples from their new Cacao Reserve Collection. (Disclaimer: As a food blogger with Blogads on my page, I was the happy recipient of a large box of complimentary chocolate bars and truffles from this very collection; in a bit of serendipity, I received this box on Valentine's Day. There is no way I can eat all this, so please E-mail me if you'd like to share in the wealth.)
But back to Sakagura! My companion and I sat down to a pink rose petal-strewn table and a sake aperitif in which one rose petal floated. (See? I told you it was romantic.) Instead of opting for a three-flight sake tasting, we ordered the sweet, low-alcohol Himezen sake. Soon we were served a dense, creamy soymilk custard in which bamboo shoots and shiitake slivers were steamed. On top of the custard was a layer of gelatinous shark fin-thickened soy sauce. Scrumptious.
The next plate was a carnival of different tastes, colors and textures: cold, caviar-sprinkled shredded lobster salad with crunchy yam, sea urchin with a spray of Japanese salt, thin slivers of fatty tuna, grilled red snapper served in a giant leaf, and sweet citrus halves stuffed with snow crab and sea urchin.
Sakagura was so crowded that there was a very long wait for the grilled dish, so our apologetic server brought over a plate of cold fried whitefish salad. The entree was a choice of foie-gras-stuffed Kobe beef or Toyama yellowtail teriyaki; we opted for the latter. Just as we were about to start eating the chopsticks, along came the rich marinated yellowtail, decorated with red pickled ginger, Japanese mountain pepper and toothsome miso-dressed taro potatoes.
A pungent shiso sorbet palate-cleanser was next, and then came the bamboo baskets of sushi. We loved the smoked salmon sprinkled with tiny dots of sweet egg, chopped tuna, grilled eel and sardine-like needlefish.
A romantic evening isn't complete without dessert (and other things that are not relevant to this food blog, but that's another matter), and we were delighted by the chocolate-mousse-stuffed mochi, mixed berries and cream on pound cake inside a crisp cookie shell, and rum raisin ice cream.
Sakagura: 211 East 43rd S.t, B1, (212) 953-7253.
In Japan, Valentine's Day is something of a Sadie Hawkins affair. (White Day, which is celebrated on March 14, was created to balance things out. On Valentine's Day, women give men a gift (usually chocolate); men reciprocate on White Day.) This Valentine's Day, it was almost impossible not to give someone a piece of chocolate... Hershey representatives were out in force around Grand Central Station, handing out free samples from their new Cacao Reserve Collection. (Disclaimer: As a food blogger with Blogads on my page, I was the happy recipient of a large box of complimentary chocolate bars and truffles from this very collection; in a bit of serendipity, I received this box on Valentine's Day. There is no way I can eat all this, so please E-mail me if you'd like to share in the wealth.)
But back to Sakagura! My companion and I sat down to a pink rose petal-strewn table and a sake aperitif in which one rose petal floated. (See? I told you it was romantic.) Instead of opting for a three-flight sake tasting, we ordered the sweet, low-alcohol Himezen sake. Soon we were served a dense, creamy soymilk custard in which bamboo shoots and shiitake slivers were steamed. On top of the custard was a layer of gelatinous shark fin-thickened soy sauce. Scrumptious.
The next plate was a carnival of different tastes, colors and textures: cold, caviar-sprinkled shredded lobster salad with crunchy yam, sea urchin with a spray of Japanese salt, thin slivers of fatty tuna, grilled red snapper served in a giant leaf, and sweet citrus halves stuffed with snow crab and sea urchin.
Sakagura was so crowded that there was a very long wait for the grilled dish, so our apologetic server brought over a plate of cold fried whitefish salad. The entree was a choice of foie-gras-stuffed Kobe beef or Toyama yellowtail teriyaki; we opted for the latter. Just as we were about to start eating the chopsticks, along came the rich marinated yellowtail, decorated with red pickled ginger, Japanese mountain pepper and toothsome miso-dressed taro potatoes.
A pungent shiso sorbet palate-cleanser was next, and then came the bamboo baskets of sushi. We loved the smoked salmon sprinkled with tiny dots of sweet egg, chopped tuna, grilled eel and sardine-like needlefish.
A romantic evening isn't complete without dessert (and other things that are not relevant to this food blog, but that's another matter), and we were delighted by the chocolate-mousse-stuffed mochi, mixed berries and cream on pound cake inside a crisp cookie shell, and rum raisin ice cream.
Sakagura: 211 East 43rd S.t, B1, (212) 953-7253.
Monday, February 12, 2007
The Art Of Coffee
I didn't know coffee could be so beautiful!
(For the record, my favorite cups of java in NYC are: the macchiato at Cafe Grumpy and the "Leftist" espresso blend at Gimme Coffee.)
(For the record, my favorite cups of java in NYC are: the macchiato at Cafe Grumpy and the "Leftist" espresso blend at Gimme Coffee.)
Saturday, February 10, 2007
Brunch at Goblin Market (CLOSED as of September 2007)
With its strategically exposed brick wall and pounded-copper bar, Goblin Market feels like it's been around for much longer than four months. Today, I was on my way to Grandaisy Bakery to pick up some pizza patate when I decided to stop over at Goblin. I'm so glad I did!
As I sat drinking strong coffee, I watched the plates piling up on neighboring tables: a thick Angus burger, a foot-long rolled tomato, mozzarella basil omelette, lemon buttermilk pancakes. Fortunately, my dish (creme-fraiche-rich eggs scrambled with smoked salmon, topped with a small spray of domestic caviar and served with slightly browned, parsleyed potatoes) was not long in arriving.
The dinner menu looked great too... you can have your steak marinated in miso or Mediterranean-style.
Goblin Market: 199 Prince St., (212) 375-8275.
As I sat drinking strong coffee, I watched the plates piling up on neighboring tables: a thick Angus burger, a foot-long rolled tomato, mozzarella basil omelette, lemon buttermilk pancakes. Fortunately, my dish (creme-fraiche-rich eggs scrambled with smoked salmon, topped with a small spray of domestic caviar and served with slightly browned, parsleyed potatoes) was not long in arriving.
The dinner menu looked great too... you can have your steak marinated in miso or Mediterranean-style.
Goblin Market: 199 Prince St., (212) 375-8275.
Wednesday, February 07, 2007
A Valentine To Make Them Swoon
I can't think of a better way to express one's love than to take that special someone to the Valentine's Day three-course dessert and wine tasting at The Chocolate Room. Lucky couples can linger over a plate of double-dipped strawberries, and they can feed each other homemade Graham-cracker smores. I say "lucky" because two of the three seatings are already completely sold out, so interested chocolate-loving lovers must hurry if they want to reserve a table!
The Chocolate Room Brooklyn: 86 5th Ave, Brooklyn, (718) 783-2900.
The Chocolate Room Brooklyn: 86 5th Ave, Brooklyn, (718) 783-2900.
Wednesday, January 31, 2007
Restaurant Week at Riingo
My friend, her fiance and I deliberated for quite some time between the regular lunch menu and the Restaurant Week meal at Riingo today. The prospect of dark chocolate mousse and green-tea donuts was the deciding factor, and we all ordered the special $24.07, three-course lunch. "Can I please have some of your green-tea donuts if I order the chocolate mousse?" I pleaded.
"Well, we're not going to have to try each other's entrees," my friend said wryly. She, her fiance and I were all equally interested in the miso-glazed mahi-mahi. At least we'd all ordered different appetizers! Her fiance ordered the bacon-accented potato soup ("Tastes just like a rich, creamy mashed potato," I opined), she went for the salmon avocado roll, and I chose the walnut-sprinkled and caramelized pear frisee salad with Roquefort crumbles. I couldn't resist ordering a few pieces of sushi - salmon roe with a hint of citrus, and a slab of pearly pink yellowtail.
We're so accustomed to the sweet miso black cod served at so many establishments that it took us a minute to get our palates around the soy-flavored mahi-mahi. Once we did, we appreciated the meaty fish with its sides of smoky gingered bulgur and steamed greens.
I groaned. "I wish I hadn't eaten so much of the garlic edamame spread that came with the rolls." (I hope someone decides to mass-produce this spread... it's better than any hummus I've ever eaten.) My groaning was short-lived, as the green-tea-marmalade, sugar-sprinkled donut holes arrived, as well as my star anise ice cream with chocolate mousse: a cylinder of dark chocolate enveloping three layers of ganache, mousse and cake.
As I was taking my last sip of roasted rice green tea, the waitress brought by three gift certificates for $24.07! Try to get into Riingo by Friday (the last day of Restaurant Week) and you'll also be treated to a complimentary future meal.
Riingo: 205 East 45th St., (212) 867-4200. East 45th Street, which also boasts Sakagura and Sushi Yasuda as well as Riingo, is now so tempting that I almost can't handle it anymore.
"Well, we're not going to have to try each other's entrees," my friend said wryly. She, her fiance and I were all equally interested in the miso-glazed mahi-mahi. At least we'd all ordered different appetizers! Her fiance ordered the bacon-accented potato soup ("Tastes just like a rich, creamy mashed potato," I opined), she went for the salmon avocado roll, and I chose the walnut-sprinkled and caramelized pear frisee salad with Roquefort crumbles. I couldn't resist ordering a few pieces of sushi - salmon roe with a hint of citrus, and a slab of pearly pink yellowtail.
We're so accustomed to the sweet miso black cod served at so many establishments that it took us a minute to get our palates around the soy-flavored mahi-mahi. Once we did, we appreciated the meaty fish with its sides of smoky gingered bulgur and steamed greens.
I groaned. "I wish I hadn't eaten so much of the garlic edamame spread that came with the rolls." (I hope someone decides to mass-produce this spread... it's better than any hummus I've ever eaten.) My groaning was short-lived, as the green-tea-marmalade, sugar-sprinkled donut holes arrived, as well as my star anise ice cream with chocolate mousse: a cylinder of dark chocolate enveloping three layers of ganache, mousse and cake.
As I was taking my last sip of roasted rice green tea, the waitress brought by three gift certificates for $24.07! Try to get into Riingo by Friday (the last day of Restaurant Week) and you'll also be treated to a complimentary future meal.
Riingo: 205 East 45th St., (212) 867-4200. East 45th Street, which also boasts Sakagura and Sushi Yasuda as well as Riingo, is now so tempting that I almost can't handle it anymore.
Wednesday, January 24, 2007
Hasaki
Since 1984, simple, casual Hasaki has delighted lovers of traditional Japanese cuisine. And now that Takino is a thing of the past, Hasaki is one of the few places where you can order tempura-by-the-piece: gingko nuts, shishito peppers and much more. A rock shrimp/mitsuba tempura is often on the daily special menu, and it's highly recommended. Also delicious is the unsauced fried white eel.
One of my favorite ways to enjoy Hasaki is the $20 "twilight dinner," which is only served until 6:30. Last night, I was about to order the grilled salmon in miso-basil sauce, but I also craved the excellent tempura. The twilight dinner was the perfect solution! This very filling meal included: rich red miso soup with tiny tofu cubes, a mesclun/frisee salad with creamy miso dressing, cold grilled eggplant, sliced crunchy lotus root, hijiki tofu salad, a luscious square of rich, fatty, salt-crusted grilled salmon, delicately sliced salmon, tuna and whitefish sashimi, and a healthy portion of tempura - two jumbo shrimp, a shrimp ball, shishito peppers, eggplant and carrot! And to top all of this off, there was a beautiful dessert plate of intricately sliced melon, orange and kiwi.
I bet Hasaki will be around for another 23 years!
Hasaki: 210 East 9th St., (212) 473-3327.
One of my favorite ways to enjoy Hasaki is the $20 "twilight dinner," which is only served until 6:30. Last night, I was about to order the grilled salmon in miso-basil sauce, but I also craved the excellent tempura. The twilight dinner was the perfect solution! This very filling meal included: rich red miso soup with tiny tofu cubes, a mesclun/frisee salad with creamy miso dressing, cold grilled eggplant, sliced crunchy lotus root, hijiki tofu salad, a luscious square of rich, fatty, salt-crusted grilled salmon, delicately sliced salmon, tuna and whitefish sashimi, and a healthy portion of tempura - two jumbo shrimp, a shrimp ball, shishito peppers, eggplant and carrot! And to top all of this off, there was a beautiful dessert plate of intricately sliced melon, orange and kiwi.
I bet Hasaki will be around for another 23 years!
Hasaki: 210 East 9th St., (212) 473-3327.
Saturday, January 13, 2007
Pala Pizza Romana
A regular hangout for patrons and musicians from nearby Rockwood Music Hall, Pala bustles with activity. As the hours go by, you'll see many a guitar and bass come through the front door. But you'll probably be more focused on the luscious appetizers, pizza and dessert!
After catching a few shows at Rockwood (there's a new band every hour, starting at 6 p.m.), I walked into Pala with three friends. We were overwhelmed with the display of innovative pizzas (fior di latte mozzarella with leeks, pork sausage, sundried tomatoes and hot pepper; pumpkin-pancetta, Gorgonzola with asparagus, fior di latte mozzarella and tomato sauce).
Each oval pizza contained four slices, so we decided to order two pizzas and three appetizers. Appetizers were divided into fritti and salads. Crispy calamari and four plump zucchini blossoms stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and anchovies were our choices. "What are these!" exclaimed a newly-converted zucchini blossom addict. The blossoms were more heavily battered than the ones at Novita and Five Points, but still very tasty, with a hint of saltiness from the anchovies inside. We also ordered the slightly charred artichoke salad with large shavings of parmigiano, and eagerly scooped up every last bite with focaccia squares.
Soon the magnificent pizzas arrived. First was the buffalo mozzarella with intense cherry tomato sauce and fresh basil (there's nothing like melting fresh mozzarella) and then we enjoyed the Gorgonzola with asparagus. The asparagus was a bit limp, but the combination of melting Gorgonzola with that mozzarella was almost too pleasurable to describe! Both pizzas had a satisfyingly chewy crust, and the slices were so large that we were each satisfied with two pieces.
Of course, that satisfaction did not replace the need for dessert. Homemade tiramisu and a dense flourless chocolate cake were a lovely end to our lively evening!
Pala Pizza Romana: 198 Allen Street, (212) 614-7252.
After catching a few shows at Rockwood (there's a new band every hour, starting at 6 p.m.), I walked into Pala with three friends. We were overwhelmed with the display of innovative pizzas (fior di latte mozzarella with leeks, pork sausage, sundried tomatoes and hot pepper; pumpkin-pancetta, Gorgonzola with asparagus, fior di latte mozzarella and tomato sauce).
Each oval pizza contained four slices, so we decided to order two pizzas and three appetizers. Appetizers were divided into fritti and salads. Crispy calamari and four plump zucchini blossoms stuffed with buffalo mozzarella and anchovies were our choices. "What are these!" exclaimed a newly-converted zucchini blossom addict. The blossoms were more heavily battered than the ones at Novita and Five Points, but still very tasty, with a hint of saltiness from the anchovies inside. We also ordered the slightly charred artichoke salad with large shavings of parmigiano, and eagerly scooped up every last bite with focaccia squares.
Soon the magnificent pizzas arrived. First was the buffalo mozzarella with intense cherry tomato sauce and fresh basil (there's nothing like melting fresh mozzarella) and then we enjoyed the Gorgonzola with asparagus. The asparagus was a bit limp, but the combination of melting Gorgonzola with that mozzarella was almost too pleasurable to describe! Both pizzas had a satisfyingly chewy crust, and the slices were so large that we were each satisfied with two pieces.
Of course, that satisfaction did not replace the need for dessert. Homemade tiramisu and a dense flourless chocolate cake were a lovely end to our lively evening!
Pala Pizza Romana: 198 Allen Street, (212) 614-7252.
Thursday, January 04, 2007
Stand Burger
Here's some stiff competition for Better Burger NYC! Stand, a trans-fat-free burger joint which recently opened on East 12th Street, serves up juicy 7-ouncers (try the decadent bacon & egg cheeseburger), Atlantic sea-salt sprinkled hand-cut fries, fresh blackberry soda, and ricotta-pistachio milkshakes. Top it all off with a melted brownie and bowl of Il Laboratorio Del Gelato sorbet.
Although prices are more Midtown than NYU, I predict that the owner's plans to franchise will be successful. (My first New Year's prediction! I hope it lasts longer than my resolutions.)
Stand: 24 East 12th St., (212) 488-5900.
Although prices are more Midtown than NYU, I predict that the owner's plans to franchise will be successful. (My first New Year's prediction! I hope it lasts longer than my resolutions.)
Stand: 24 East 12th St., (212) 488-5900.
Sunday, December 31, 2006
Painter Girl Chocolates
2006 flew by as fast as a cheetah, and a cheetah is what I'm munching on as I contemplate the beginning of the new year. Well, not an actual wildcat, but "The Cheetah" chocolate bar conceived by the wonderfully creative Painter Girl Chocolates. For my birthday this year, a friend bought me The Cheetah, The Wild Pony, The Snow Leopard and The Zebra, all animal-print bars made from Belgian chocolate.
My New Year's resolution is to try to appreciate each moment a little more. I think I can start by slowly savoring a rich chocolate bar.
Happy New Year!
My New Year's resolution is to try to appreciate each moment a little more. I think I can start by slowly savoring a rich chocolate bar.
Happy New Year!
Friday, December 29, 2006
Boqueria
Walking into Boqueria, an authentic tapas bar, I thought the only details missing were cigarette smoke and paper strewn all over the floor. "We can't do that," joked Yann, the owner. But there was an inviting counter full of wheels of Spanish cheese and plates of white anchovy toasts, and a few businessmen sat there sipping beer and cafe con leche. I cast a glance over the packed dining area and decided to sit in the more casual section at the front of the room.
Boqueria's menu, organized by portion size, consists of tapas, embutidos (cured meats such as the beloved Serrano ham and paprika sausage), media raciones, raciones and para compartir (to share). Although there are many traditional items such as gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp) and paella, there's a whimsical touch (there are lychees in the arroz cremoso).
My original intention was to try three tapas, but I was full after one and a half! I had a slice of the tortilla espanola, a nicely browned, sliced potato omelette as high as a deep-dish apple pie. (Note to olive-lovers: a small portion of green and black olives accompanies the tortilla.) I guess I was in a potato mood, so I also devoured the salt cod brandade, which arrived with fried herbs and crisp toasts.
The cook at the bar gave me some white anchovy toasts smeared with goat cheese. He was obsessed with Ferran Adria's 825-recipe cookbook, and told me how Adria had autographed it when he visited New York this fall. Although you won't find cocina de vanguardia at Boqueria, I'm sure you will be satisfied with the excellent, thoughtfully prepared Spanish food.
Boqueria: 53 West 19th St., (212) 255-4160. Happily, the restaurant does not close between lunch and dinner, so stop in for an afternoon snack.
Boqueria's menu, organized by portion size, consists of tapas, embutidos (cured meats such as the beloved Serrano ham and paprika sausage), media raciones, raciones and para compartir (to share). Although there are many traditional items such as gambas al ajillo (garlic shrimp) and paella, there's a whimsical touch (there are lychees in the arroz cremoso).
My original intention was to try three tapas, but I was full after one and a half! I had a slice of the tortilla espanola, a nicely browned, sliced potato omelette as high as a deep-dish apple pie. (Note to olive-lovers: a small portion of green and black olives accompanies the tortilla.) I guess I was in a potato mood, so I also devoured the salt cod brandade, which arrived with fried herbs and crisp toasts.
The cook at the bar gave me some white anchovy toasts smeared with goat cheese. He was obsessed with Ferran Adria's 825-recipe cookbook, and told me how Adria had autographed it when he visited New York this fall. Although you won't find cocina de vanguardia at Boqueria, I'm sure you will be satisfied with the excellent, thoughtfully prepared Spanish food.
Boqueria: 53 West 19th St., (212) 255-4160. Happily, the restaurant does not close between lunch and dinner, so stop in for an afternoon snack.
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
wd-50
Has the sight of all those Christmas trees made you hungry? If so, you might want to head over to wd-50, where the current menu features sly hints of the season. This weekend, there were pine needle beans, spruce yogurt and a pine nut casserole. My companion and I celebrated Christmas Eve doing what we love most: dining out. Many others had the same idea, as wd-50 was packed even though chef Wylie Dufresne had the night off.
We almost ordered the 9-course tasting, but instead decided only to go the tasting route for dessert, ordering a la carte for dinner. But the couple next to us ordered the 9-course tasting, and we were quite envious watching all the exciting concoctions they were served! One of their courses was a miso soup served with a little squeeze bottle of... noodles! When they squirted the liquid contents of the squeeze bottle into their bowls, convincingly thick udon-like noodles were formed. The server told us that the broth had to be sufficiently hot for the reaction to take place.
Our amuse-bouche was a little pressed coin of smoked eel, served with tiny white "pine needle beans" and a swirl of tangy cranberry puree. I was going to order the rabbit sausage pine nut cassoulet but instead went for the lighter malted chestnut soup. This bowl of slightly foamy, earthy brown broth was a tableau for an ikebana-like garnish. Tufts of dried, shredded bright-orange salmon were scattered across the soup like blossoms, with green celery root and chestnut chips for leaves. It was almost too pretty to eat! My companion's choice was the cold, refreshing squid noodles with julienned zucchini, tart dehydrated grapefruit sections and sansho sour cream. The squid had the texture of spaghetti.
For entrees, I ended up preferring my companion's succulent pink ocean trout, served with a spray of Middle Eastern spices, cucumber strips which looked raw and green but which were somehow tender, and panelle. My hearty portion of cacao-nib-sprinkled, crispy-skinned bass was somewhat overpowered (to my taste) by its bed of heavy peanut-sauced quinoa. But the cacao nibs provided a delicious kind of deconstructed mole.
The dessert tasting, which ended up including an extra "pre-dessert" course, was shockingly imaginative (and wonderful!). Our waiter said that he could score us the yuzu custard from the 10-course menu, but that everything else would be a surprise.
I love savory elements in desserts, and the dessert tasting was right up my alley. The pre-dessert was a little fantasy of pineapple puree, dried apple strips and apple sorbet. Next was yuzu custard with sour herbal spruce yogurt, Sicilian pistachios and shortbread crumbles, then a plate of black currant pound cake and sorbet with a soft little meringue, a black sesame sprinkle and a swirl of black sesame gelee, and finally the chocolate/avocado dessert: a long strip of soft chocolate cream dotted with light and dark green pools of avocado and lime puree. The dessert was a meal in itself!
wd-50: 50 Clinton St., (212) 477-2900.
We almost ordered the 9-course tasting, but instead decided only to go the tasting route for dessert, ordering a la carte for dinner. But the couple next to us ordered the 9-course tasting, and we were quite envious watching all the exciting concoctions they were served! One of their courses was a miso soup served with a little squeeze bottle of... noodles! When they squirted the liquid contents of the squeeze bottle into their bowls, convincingly thick udon-like noodles were formed. The server told us that the broth had to be sufficiently hot for the reaction to take place.
Our amuse-bouche was a little pressed coin of smoked eel, served with tiny white "pine needle beans" and a swirl of tangy cranberry puree. I was going to order the rabbit sausage pine nut cassoulet but instead went for the lighter malted chestnut soup. This bowl of slightly foamy, earthy brown broth was a tableau for an ikebana-like garnish. Tufts of dried, shredded bright-orange salmon were scattered across the soup like blossoms, with green celery root and chestnut chips for leaves. It was almost too pretty to eat! My companion's choice was the cold, refreshing squid noodles with julienned zucchini, tart dehydrated grapefruit sections and sansho sour cream. The squid had the texture of spaghetti.
For entrees, I ended up preferring my companion's succulent pink ocean trout, served with a spray of Middle Eastern spices, cucumber strips which looked raw and green but which were somehow tender, and panelle. My hearty portion of cacao-nib-sprinkled, crispy-skinned bass was somewhat overpowered (to my taste) by its bed of heavy peanut-sauced quinoa. But the cacao nibs provided a delicious kind of deconstructed mole.
The dessert tasting, which ended up including an extra "pre-dessert" course, was shockingly imaginative (and wonderful!). Our waiter said that he could score us the yuzu custard from the 10-course menu, but that everything else would be a surprise.
I love savory elements in desserts, and the dessert tasting was right up my alley. The pre-dessert was a little fantasy of pineapple puree, dried apple strips and apple sorbet. Next was yuzu custard with sour herbal spruce yogurt, Sicilian pistachios and shortbread crumbles, then a plate of black currant pound cake and sorbet with a soft little meringue, a black sesame sprinkle and a swirl of black sesame gelee, and finally the chocolate/avocado dessert: a long strip of soft chocolate cream dotted with light and dark green pools of avocado and lime puree. The dessert was a meal in itself!
wd-50: 50 Clinton St., (212) 477-2900.
Friday, December 22, 2006
Tocqueville Restaurant
Tocqueville is still hot, hot, hot, even though its new incarnation has been open since February. Last night, our party of four had a 9 p.m. reservation, but a table didn't open up until after 10. Fortunately, the gracious host sat us at the bar, plying us with complimentary glasses of Lafitte Rose and all the sparkling water we could drink! Although we weren't able to move to the dining room until our entrees, we certainly appreciated the hospitality. (Service was excellent throughout the night.)
We munched on gougeres while looking over the seasonal, local menu. (A veal chop in bacon-onion sauce was the special.) Our amuse-bouche was a tiny cup of rich Parmesan lentil soup.
To start, we ordered the sea urchin carbonara (my choice), Cato cheddar salad, house-cured salmon and sturgeon, and sunchoke soup. The Cato cheddar salad was a tall pile of frisee topped with a giant slice of cheddar and a few hazelnuts, served next to some halved roasted pears. A few bay scallops decorated the earthy sunchoke soup. The thinly-sliced salmon and sturgeon was my favorite appetizer - sprinkled with peppery kaiware, it was refreshing and stimulating to the appetite (which is what an appetizer should do!). I felt that my sea urchin carbonara was actually the least appealing selection. Sea urchin is a delicate creature, and in this instance it was lost in a heavy clump of eggy, creamy noodles. (Basta Pasta does a great sea urchin pasta; the pink sauce is much lighter and the urchin is served on top in a heap, rather than being mixed into the pasta and losing its texture.)
My entree was the wild salmon wrapped in Savoy cabbage. It looked like a big California roll, and arrived with a vial of "bagna cauda" (according to the server, the sauce contained tomato, onion, garlic, anchovy, butter and olive oil), tiny Beluga lentils and spicy watercress. This preparation of salmon rendered the fish perfectly moist. Other entrees were the bloody rare "60-Second Steak" with a cake of "24-Hour Shortrib" (did I detect a hint of vanilla in the little Brussels sprouts accompanying the meat?) and our favorite entree, the hibiscus-scented John Dory.
At dessert, I was again more entranced with others' selections than my own. I ordered the toasted sesame pudding, which was something of an underwater dessert. Two cubes of pudding floated atop a lonely little cookie underneath a cold, clear shiso/elderflower broth. I immediately gravitated towards my friend's thick rectangle of chocolate-graham cracker mousseline, apologizing for my indiscretion.
Tocqueville Restaurant: 15 East 15th St., (212) 647-1515.
We munched on gougeres while looking over the seasonal, local menu. (A veal chop in bacon-onion sauce was the special.) Our amuse-bouche was a tiny cup of rich Parmesan lentil soup.
To start, we ordered the sea urchin carbonara (my choice), Cato cheddar salad, house-cured salmon and sturgeon, and sunchoke soup. The Cato cheddar salad was a tall pile of frisee topped with a giant slice of cheddar and a few hazelnuts, served next to some halved roasted pears. A few bay scallops decorated the earthy sunchoke soup. The thinly-sliced salmon and sturgeon was my favorite appetizer - sprinkled with peppery kaiware, it was refreshing and stimulating to the appetite (which is what an appetizer should do!). I felt that my sea urchin carbonara was actually the least appealing selection. Sea urchin is a delicate creature, and in this instance it was lost in a heavy clump of eggy, creamy noodles. (Basta Pasta does a great sea urchin pasta; the pink sauce is much lighter and the urchin is served on top in a heap, rather than being mixed into the pasta and losing its texture.)
My entree was the wild salmon wrapped in Savoy cabbage. It looked like a big California roll, and arrived with a vial of "bagna cauda" (according to the server, the sauce contained tomato, onion, garlic, anchovy, butter and olive oil), tiny Beluga lentils and spicy watercress. This preparation of salmon rendered the fish perfectly moist. Other entrees were the bloody rare "60-Second Steak" with a cake of "24-Hour Shortrib" (did I detect a hint of vanilla in the little Brussels sprouts accompanying the meat?) and our favorite entree, the hibiscus-scented John Dory.
At dessert, I was again more entranced with others' selections than my own. I ordered the toasted sesame pudding, which was something of an underwater dessert. Two cubes of pudding floated atop a lonely little cookie underneath a cold, clear shiso/elderflower broth. I immediately gravitated towards my friend's thick rectangle of chocolate-graham cracker mousseline, apologizing for my indiscretion.
Tocqueville Restaurant: 15 East 15th St., (212) 647-1515.
Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Salli And The Chocolate Factory
Have you ever wanted to see the inner workings of a chocolate factory? This Wednesday-Friday, you'll be granted a rare glimpse into Vere Chocolates, and best of all, any chocolates you may purchase during the tour will be discounted by 20%! Try the fruit & nut "tile" mosaics or the classic truffles made with cream and butter from grass-fed cows.
Vere Chocolates: 12 West 27th St., 6th Floor, (866) 410-VERE.
Vere Chocolates: 12 West 27th St., 6th Floor, (866) 410-VERE.
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
A Short Trip To Tokyo
I am presently eating myself into a coma in Tokyo. (Don't worry, I'll soon be back to do the same in New York.) You can read about my experiences at Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page.
Monday, December 04, 2006
The Traveling Palate
I've just discovered the Traveling Palate, a group which holds events highlighting various world cuisines. This month's dinner, which takes place at Kiva Cafe on Thursday, December 7, will showcase the spicy, hearty food of Ethiopia. There will be injera, spiced red lentils, braised chicken with tomatoes, ginger, allspice and cloves, and much more! To RSVP, please call (212) 587-1198.
Sunday, December 03, 2006
FIKA
Take a break from the mad 5th Avenue Christmas rush, turn right on 58th Street and stop into FIKA, a contemporary Swedish coffee/sweets/sandwich shop. You'll be able to enjoy juniper-marinated gravlax, a sandwich with roast beef and Vasterbotten cheese, Swedish meatballs on baguette, and a daily soup (the other day, a delectable potato leek topped with homemade croutons). Make sure to try the excellent coffee, and accompany it with delightful sweets like kanelbulle, little cinnamon crullers coated with crystallized sugar, kladdkaka, a very sweet, dense chocolate cake with a dollop of whipped cream, or chocolate-lingonberry truffles. Soon you'll be recharged and ready for your holiday shopping! (I haven't even started...)
FIKA: 41 West 58th St., (212) 832-0028.
FIKA: 41 West 58th St., (212) 832-0028.
Monday, November 27, 2006
Learn to Make Chocolate in Your Own Home
The holiday gift rush has arrived. But if you dread the thought of braving the stampede at Macy's or Bloomie's, I have a solution for you, or at least the chocolate lovers on your gift list. How do you think your favorite chocoholics would react if you presented them with a gift of... homemade chocolate?
On Saturday, December 2 at 9:00 a.m., Jeff Pzena, owner of the CottonTree Lodge, and Clay Gordon, organizer of the Discover Chocolate Meetup, are offering a day-long "Learn To Make Chocolate In Your Own Home" workshop. They will cover all the fundamentals of making chocolate from raw cocoa beans, even including such topics as recipe development. You'll take home a finished 4oz chocolate bar and, hopefully, a lifetime of knowledge!
Join the Chocolate Meetup Group and RSVP.
On Saturday, December 2 at 9:00 a.m., Jeff Pzena, owner of the CottonTree Lodge, and Clay Gordon, organizer of the Discover Chocolate Meetup, are offering a day-long "Learn To Make Chocolate In Your Own Home" workshop. They will cover all the fundamentals of making chocolate from raw cocoa beans, even including such topics as recipe development. You'll take home a finished 4oz chocolate bar and, hopefully, a lifetime of knowledge!
Join the Chocolate Meetup Group and RSVP.
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Thanksgiving Dishes By Astrological Sign
For once, my horoscope was accurate! According to Sabra Ricci's "Thanksgiving Dishes By Astrological Sign," as a Sagittarius, I am extravagant, overindulgent, and fond of macaroni and cheese.
Happy Thanksgiving!
Happy Thanksgiving!
Tuesday, November 21, 2006
Babbo
Autumn's bounty was all over the menu at Babbo last night, and I'm so glad I was able to enjoy some of it. Around 9:30 p.m., I was hungrily wandering the West Village. I'd been meaning to check out Inside on Jones Street, but the host disappeared into thin air when I walked in. I knew that Babbo would be a long shot, but when I hesitantly opened the door, I actually saw an empty seat at the end of the bar! MINE, I thought triumphantly.
The menu featured lots of white truffles, pumpkin, and butternut squash. Next to me, a man was tearing away at his grilled guinea hen with a side of Brussels sprouts. I wondered if I should order the special duck egg appetizer or perhaps start with an half-portion of pumpkin luna with sage, but instead I ended up with: the trio of goat cheese truffles coated in poppy seeds, hot paprika and fennel, tossed over a tumble of marinated yellow and red pepper strips and served with crostini (rich!), the special bavette with Castelmagno, spicy toasted breadcrumbs and cardoons (I'd never tasted this artichoke-like vegetables) and the awesome, silky golden maple custard served with three light, puffy, sugar-crunchy pumpkin donuts.
I smiled all the way home!
Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca: 110 Waverly Place. (212) 777-0303.
The menu featured lots of white truffles, pumpkin, and butternut squash. Next to me, a man was tearing away at his grilled guinea hen with a side of Brussels sprouts. I wondered if I should order the special duck egg appetizer or perhaps start with an half-portion of pumpkin luna with sage, but instead I ended up with: the trio of goat cheese truffles coated in poppy seeds, hot paprika and fennel, tossed over a tumble of marinated yellow and red pepper strips and served with crostini (rich!), the special bavette with Castelmagno, spicy toasted breadcrumbs and cardoons (I'd never tasted this artichoke-like vegetables) and the awesome, silky golden maple custard served with three light, puffy, sugar-crunchy pumpkin donuts.
I smiled all the way home!
Babbo Ristorante e Enoteca: 110 Waverly Place. (212) 777-0303.
Saturday, November 11, 2006
Mamalu Play & Munch Ground: Arepas for the Young and Old
In a sign of the increasingly family-friendly nature of Williamsburg, the first cafe-playroom has arrived next to McCarron Park. Three months ago, Maria Laura and Mariela opened Mamalu, a casual, organic spot with Venezuelan touches. Parents: while you placate your toddler with an organic PBJ and spoon some Earth's Best into your baby's hungry mouth, you can enjoy guasacaca (Venezuelan spicy avocado sauce), reina pepiada (Venezuelan chicken salad), baked eggs, and fresh arepas with cotija cheese (with flaxseed or without). There's also a selection of sandwiches on Pain D'Avignon bread which you can accompany with plaintain chips or a mixed salad. And if you're not in the mood for food, just sip a cup of Oslo Coffee.
When those new condos open on Bayard, you won't be able to get a seat!
Mamalu: 232 North 12th St., Brooklyn, (718) 486-6312.
When those new condos open on Bayard, you won't be able to get a seat!
Mamalu: 232 North 12th St., Brooklyn, (718) 486-6312.
Friday, November 10, 2006
The 9th Annual Chocolate Show: Insider Tips!
- If you want tons of free truffles, do head to Pierre Gourmet at the very back of the Metropolitan Pavilion. People were coming away with handfuls. (Surprisingly, a few vendors this year offered no free samples at all - maybe someone should speak to John & Kira and Cocoa Locoa!)
- For a free sample of banana dipped in chocolate from a chocolate fountain, go to Chocolat Weiss in the Altman building. Divalicious, in the Metropolitan Pavilion Building, will charge you at least $3 for your sample, and the melted chocolate isn't as warm.
- However, if you want to sip free hot chocolate instead of paying $1 at Chocolat Weiss, go to Schokinag, which is serving up samples of hot chocolate in all kinds of flavors: Triple Chocolate, Dulce De Leche, and Chocolate Mint!
Monday, November 06, 2006
The 9th Annual Chocolate Show: This Weekend
This weekend, while some people restrict their calories or pretend to eat at virtual restaurants, I'll be happily indulging at the 9th Annual Chocolate Show. You should too!
Monday, October 30, 2006
Kyotofu NYC: Opening Today!
Well, the grand opening of this new Japanese bakery is actually November 6, but you can get a sneak peek of the offerings starting tonight at 6:30 p.m. There will be a full bar including sake and shochu, and treats like sansho pepper cheesecake, chocolate chestnut mochi cake, fresh ginger sticky rice pudding, green tea cookies, and homemade sweet black sesame tofu. (I've been waiting quite a while for this!)
Edited to add: You must try the black-sesame-cake-bottomed sansho cheesecake, which is served with plum carpaccio and crystallized ginger!
Kyotofu NYC: 705 Ninth Ave. (212) 974-6012.
Edited to add: You must try the black-sesame-cake-bottomed sansho cheesecake, which is served with plum carpaccio and crystallized ginger!
Kyotofu NYC: 705 Ninth Ave. (212) 974-6012.
Friday, October 27, 2006
From Maeda To Chiyoda
The space at 16 East 41st Street used to be a venerable, extremely pricey sushi bar called Maeda. Sometimes I would walk by, but in the interest of preserving my wallet, I'd head into Cafe Zaiya instead.
Now, Cafe Zaiya is a wonderful place if you want a quick Japanese lunch, but... dare I say, the new Chiyoda (formerly Maeda) right next door is... much better. I found this out yesterday, when I walked past Cafe Zaiya, looking for Maeda! Instead, I saw a spotless, attractive take-out/eat-in operation that seemed straight out of Tokyo. As I admired the salmon-mentaiko onigiri, ginger-topped saury sushi, and seared salmon sushi decorated with little lemon slices, something seemed familiar to me. The only place in NYC where I'd previously found such high-quality take-out sushi was the Katagiri grocery. Could this be the same sushi?
Indeed, it was! Apparently, Katagiri's sushi source has opened its first stand-alone outpost in New York. But Chiyoda offers a lot more than just sushi. There are luscious daily cooked specials like chicken namban and a salmon in a shiitake butter sauce, there are noodle soups and oden, there are intriguing salads like pumpkin raisin walnut and seaweed chicken, and desserts such as black sesame pudding. And there's a reason for the authenticity of Chiyoda: it already has over 250 stores in Japan.
Chiyoda Sushi New York: 16 East 41st St., (212) 400-8880. One small note: Although there's a CASH ONLY sign on the register, if you are a glutton like me and order over $15 worth of food, you can charge up that credit card.
Now, Cafe Zaiya is a wonderful place if you want a quick Japanese lunch, but... dare I say, the new Chiyoda (formerly Maeda) right next door is... much better. I found this out yesterday, when I walked past Cafe Zaiya, looking for Maeda! Instead, I saw a spotless, attractive take-out/eat-in operation that seemed straight out of Tokyo. As I admired the salmon-mentaiko onigiri, ginger-topped saury sushi, and seared salmon sushi decorated with little lemon slices, something seemed familiar to me. The only place in NYC where I'd previously found such high-quality take-out sushi was the Katagiri grocery. Could this be the same sushi?
Indeed, it was! Apparently, Katagiri's sushi source has opened its first stand-alone outpost in New York. But Chiyoda offers a lot more than just sushi. There are luscious daily cooked specials like chicken namban and a salmon in a shiitake butter sauce, there are noodle soups and oden, there are intriguing salads like pumpkin raisin walnut and seaweed chicken, and desserts such as black sesame pudding. And there's a reason for the authenticity of Chiyoda: it already has over 250 stores in Japan.
Chiyoda Sushi New York: 16 East 41st St., (212) 400-8880. One small note: Although there's a CASH ONLY sign on the register, if you are a glutton like me and order over $15 worth of food, you can charge up that credit card.
Saturday, October 21, 2006
The 10-Minute Tofu Maker
Have you been hopelessly spoiled by the fresh tofu at En Japanese Brasserie? If so, you may want to invest in the Banrai Nabe, an amazing gadget that produces tofu in a record-breaking 10 minutes. (Supposedly, it also makes amazing chocolate fondue.) This was just one of many exciting exhibits at today's 13th Annual Japanese Food & Restaurant Show.
While happily munching on tuna sashimi dipped in year-aged Yamasa soy sauce and a shiso-plum paste hand roll, I noticed an interesting new trend: the tendency to treat sake like wine, pairing it with certain foods. At the "sake & food matching table," an aromatic Honjozu went with the black miso-braised pork, a rich Junmai sake accompanied grilled chicken, and a light Ginjo was recommended for delicate sesame tofu.
Another popular exhibit was artisanal food corner. Premium Wagyu beef, sweet potato vinegar, smoked sea salt and a deliciously mellow barley miso were on display. Maruyama Nori Ten Company blended traditional Japanese teas with herbs, coming up with combinations like jasmine genmaicha. Maruyama also offered special, non-clumping green tea powder, which can be used in baked goods. (If you'd like the green-tea scone recipe, just E-mail me.)
While happily munching on tuna sashimi dipped in year-aged Yamasa soy sauce and a shiso-plum paste hand roll, I noticed an interesting new trend: the tendency to treat sake like wine, pairing it with certain foods. At the "sake & food matching table," an aromatic Honjozu went with the black miso-braised pork, a rich Junmai sake accompanied grilled chicken, and a light Ginjo was recommended for delicate sesame tofu.
Another popular exhibit was artisanal food corner. Premium Wagyu beef, sweet potato vinegar, smoked sea salt and a deliciously mellow barley miso were on display. Maruyama Nori Ten Company blended traditional Japanese teas with herbs, coming up with combinations like jasmine genmaicha. Maruyama also offered special, non-clumping green tea powder, which can be used in baked goods. (If you'd like the green-tea scone recipe, just E-mail me.)
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
The Farm On Adderley
I never thought I'd see the day when I'd put my name on a waiting list to eat in Ditmas Park (thanks for the correction, Brooklynites!), Brooklyn. But that day came this weekend, when some friends and I walked into a packed The Farm On Adderley. With its backyard patio, exposed brick and arty photographs, The Farm would be right at home in Cobble Hill, or for that matter, the West Village.
(For those of you who are wondering, there is no "Adderley Road" in Brooklyn; the restaurant is named after a place in South Africa.)
After a pleasant chat in the bar area, we were led to a large round table in the back. The specials included a roasted eggplant appetizer with grilled flatbread, a pan-seared tilapia and ribeye with heirloom potatoes and cipollini. Unfortunately, the kitchen had 86ed the double cut pork chop and grilled brook trout. (One small curiosity on the menu: if you order a burger, you can ask that it be topped with a fried egg.)
We were first served a plate of bread and lavender-infused olive oil. I thought they could have been a little more generous with the bread - there was one small slice per person. For an appetizer, I enjoyed a chive-sprinkled, creamy cauliflower soup with the intriguing addition of one fried oyster. I also shared the roasted eggplant dip, which was accompanied by diced root vegetables) and an amazing buttermilk-dressed Bibb salad with fresh green peas.
I had another case of "entree envy" when dinner arrived. My adjacent friend had ordered the sweet potato gnocchi, which was a rich, buttery, sage-scented bowl of chewy orange pasta! I did like my (a bit over-)seared tilapia with baby carrots, potatoes and celery root puree, but how I longed for the pasta. Others among us ordered the ribeye, which looked to be enough for three people.
The large table next to us had just ordered an enticing array of desserts, so we decided to follow suit. A buttermilk panna cotta in a cool Concord grape sauce was topped with crunchy pecans, a gingerbread cake was served warm with a dollop of tropical fruit mousse, and the chocolate-banana upside-down cake (easily my favorite) had the added bonus of coconut sorbet.
Ditmas Park - I envy you.
The Farm On Adderley: 1108 Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn, (718) 287-3101.
(For those of you who are wondering, there is no "Adderley Road" in Brooklyn; the restaurant is named after a place in South Africa.)
After a pleasant chat in the bar area, we were led to a large round table in the back. The specials included a roasted eggplant appetizer with grilled flatbread, a pan-seared tilapia and ribeye with heirloom potatoes and cipollini. Unfortunately, the kitchen had 86ed the double cut pork chop and grilled brook trout. (One small curiosity on the menu: if you order a burger, you can ask that it be topped with a fried egg.)
We were first served a plate of bread and lavender-infused olive oil. I thought they could have been a little more generous with the bread - there was one small slice per person. For an appetizer, I enjoyed a chive-sprinkled, creamy cauliflower soup with the intriguing addition of one fried oyster. I also shared the roasted eggplant dip, which was accompanied by diced root vegetables) and an amazing buttermilk-dressed Bibb salad with fresh green peas.
I had another case of "entree envy" when dinner arrived. My adjacent friend had ordered the sweet potato gnocchi, which was a rich, buttery, sage-scented bowl of chewy orange pasta! I did like my (a bit over-)seared tilapia with baby carrots, potatoes and celery root puree, but how I longed for the pasta. Others among us ordered the ribeye, which looked to be enough for three people.
The large table next to us had just ordered an enticing array of desserts, so we decided to follow suit. A buttermilk panna cotta in a cool Concord grape sauce was topped with crunchy pecans, a gingerbread cake was served warm with a dollop of tropical fruit mousse, and the chocolate-banana upside-down cake (easily my favorite) had the added bonus of coconut sorbet.
Ditmas Park - I envy you.
The Farm On Adderley: 1108 Cortelyou Road, Brooklyn, (718) 287-3101.
Tuesday, October 10, 2006
Despana: ¡Que tienda mas maravillosa!
I've just returned from Spain - well, more accurately, Broome Street, but I might as well have been in Spain for all the Spanish delicacies I just purchased and ate! For eight months, Despaña has been plying Iberophiles with all kinds of good things: chorizo, Serrano ham, sherry vinegar, fragrant Primicia olive oil, tuna-stuffed olives in escabeche, cactus marmalade from the Canary Islands, poached pears, Asturian cheese, tortas de aceite, and licorice bonbons. And that's just the grocery! In the ready-to-eat section, there are various sandwiches on ciabatta (some options: dry-cured pork loin with Manchego, spicy chorizo with Mahon cheese and Basque peppers, and white tuna wth white anchovies) tortilla española (two flavors: potato or chorizo-pepper), desserts like requeson y miel (white cheese and honey), and some really great espresso. (There's only one table, so try to grab it!)
Now, please excuse me while I put away my artichoke hearts, ali oli, artisanal asparagus mousse, whole piquillo peppers, and dry-cured fish sampler.
Despana: 408 Broome St., (212) 219-5050.
Now, please excuse me while I put away my artichoke hearts, ali oli, artisanal asparagus mousse, whole piquillo peppers, and dry-cured fish sampler.
Despana: 408 Broome St., (212) 219-5050.
Thursday, October 05, 2006
Baked NYC
I've fallen head over heels in love. Unfortunately, the object of my desire is in another borough. However, this elusiveness only makes me pine away all the more. Lest you start worriedly E-mailing my companion, I'll reveal that both of us are enjoying my new beloved: Baked NYC!
Baked is the sexiest, most adult bakery I've found in NYC, with its Scotch-laced chocolate pudding and fleur de sel-sprinkled sweet-and-salty caramel cake. Other creative cakes are the red-hot cinnamon buttercream with Valrhona cocoa, and the fortune-cookie topped almond green-tea. I've also tried a delectable cornmeal muffin accented with rosemary, a mixed berry scone with a slight tinge of lemon, and the icebox cake: a sort of gourmet Oreo with chocolate wafers and pastry cream.
Unfortunately, Baked is a 20-minute walk from the Carroll Street subway station. If you want to cut that walk in half, just walk down Union Street past the BQE into the Columbia Heights neighborhood - you'll find many Baked goods at Coffee Den on the corner.
Baked NYC: 359 Van Brunt St., (718) 222-0345.
Baked is the sexiest, most adult bakery I've found in NYC, with its Scotch-laced chocolate pudding and fleur de sel-sprinkled sweet-and-salty caramel cake. Other creative cakes are the red-hot cinnamon buttercream with Valrhona cocoa, and the fortune-cookie topped almond green-tea. I've also tried a delectable cornmeal muffin accented with rosemary, a mixed berry scone with a slight tinge of lemon, and the icebox cake: a sort of gourmet Oreo with chocolate wafers and pastry cream.
Unfortunately, Baked is a 20-minute walk from the Carroll Street subway station. If you want to cut that walk in half, just walk down Union Street past the BQE into the Columbia Heights neighborhood - you'll find many Baked goods at Coffee Den on the corner.
Baked NYC: 359 Van Brunt St., (718) 222-0345.
Wednesday, October 04, 2006
A Beer and Bacon Tasting
Today, from 7-9 p.m., Josh Ozersky (New York Magazine’s online food editor) will hold an exciting Beer and Bacon Tasting at Jimmy’s (43 E. 7th St) from 7 to 9 pm. There will be six hearty varieties of bacon and plenty of porter!
Saturday, September 23, 2006
All's Well That Ends Well... Brunch at DuMont
My Williamsburg friend and I were discussing brunch options this morning. "How is Gribouille's menu?" I wondered. "They have a good prix fixe - it's three courses," said my friend.
"I don't know if I'm in the mood for three courses this morning," I said. "Then why don't we check out the new PT?" suggested my friend. "Someone told me it was fabulous."
We walked over to South 3rd and Bedford, and PT, a new Italian restaurant, was not open for brunch. "What about Bonita across the street?" asked my friend. "I thought that place was OK," I said, "but they skimped on my huevos rancheros." We continued walking and wondering what to do.
We decided to walk to Diner, that eminence grise of Williamsburg restaurants. There was a crowd waiting outside, and as we approached the door, we saw masses of people standing inside as well. I sighed, but perked up when my friend informed me that Diner's owners had opened Marlow and Sons, a little restaurant/gourmet market next door. Although the restaurant did not serve brunch, I was excited to find out that the market, which was somewhat reminiscent of the popular Bedford Cheese Shop, offered fresh-baked goods ("We bake everything except the croissants," said the counterperson). There were all kinds of goodies: apple scones, bacon gruyere scones, raisin-studded iced bear claws. I wondered if we might grow hungry during our search for brunch, so I ordered a deliciously crumbly apple scone and a huge tomato mozzarella basil sandwich. My friend laughed. "When are you going to eat that?"
We kept walking. "Dressler is hot," said my friend. "I wonder if they have brunch?" A lovely woman named Christina told us that Sunday brunch will be served starting October 1. She handed us an enticing new fall dinner menu - it included braised short ribs with parsnip puree, pea & Fontina raviolini, and pan-roasted quail with baked white polenta - and those were just the appetizers!
Now we were really hungry. "Do you think we might get into Colin Devlin's original spot, Dumont?" I asked. "There's probably a line," replied my friend dolefully. Still, we resolved to walk all the way over to Union Avenue. When we finally reached DuMont, we were welcomed by a smiling server and an empty table!
There were so many appetizing choices... eggs Florentine or Benedict on brioche toast, croque-monsieur, smoked trout salad with a poached egg. I ordered the special smoked salmon omelette and my friend chose the huevos rancheros with eggs over easy.
We were surprised by a complimentary plate of warm, sugar-sprinkled doughnut holes. (What a wonderful way to begin a brunch!) The entrees arrived without delay - according to my friend, many Williamsburg restaurants suffer from lackadaisical service - but not DuMont. The smoked salmon omelette was wonderfully fluffy with a filling of thick salmon slices and tangy puffs of dill-flecked goat cheese. Also served were a refreshing mixed green salad and some really amazing home fries. Large chunks of well-salted fried potato were perfectly crispy on the outside, light as air on the inside. The potatoes were mixed with onions and red peppers, and all vegetables kept their shape instead of being smooshed into an overcooked, unrecognizable mass. My friend liked his huevos rancheros with black beans (the avocado in his salad was a nice touch), but he preferred my entree. I tried to be generous with it.
The finishing touch was a warm, dense chocolate brownie with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream!
Dumont: 432 Union Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 486-7717.
"I don't know if I'm in the mood for three courses this morning," I said. "Then why don't we check out the new PT?" suggested my friend. "Someone told me it was fabulous."
We walked over to South 3rd and Bedford, and PT, a new Italian restaurant, was not open for brunch. "What about Bonita across the street?" asked my friend. "I thought that place was OK," I said, "but they skimped on my huevos rancheros." We continued walking and wondering what to do.
We decided to walk to Diner, that eminence grise of Williamsburg restaurants. There was a crowd waiting outside, and as we approached the door, we saw masses of people standing inside as well. I sighed, but perked up when my friend informed me that Diner's owners had opened Marlow and Sons, a little restaurant/gourmet market next door. Although the restaurant did not serve brunch, I was excited to find out that the market, which was somewhat reminiscent of the popular Bedford Cheese Shop, offered fresh-baked goods ("We bake everything except the croissants," said the counterperson). There were all kinds of goodies: apple scones, bacon gruyere scones, raisin-studded iced bear claws. I wondered if we might grow hungry during our search for brunch, so I ordered a deliciously crumbly apple scone and a huge tomato mozzarella basil sandwich. My friend laughed. "When are you going to eat that?"
We kept walking. "Dressler is hot," said my friend. "I wonder if they have brunch?" A lovely woman named Christina told us that Sunday brunch will be served starting October 1. She handed us an enticing new fall dinner menu - it included braised short ribs with parsnip puree, pea & Fontina raviolini, and pan-roasted quail with baked white polenta - and those were just the appetizers!
Now we were really hungry. "Do you think we might get into Colin Devlin's original spot, Dumont?" I asked. "There's probably a line," replied my friend dolefully. Still, we resolved to walk all the way over to Union Avenue. When we finally reached DuMont, we were welcomed by a smiling server and an empty table!
There were so many appetizing choices... eggs Florentine or Benedict on brioche toast, croque-monsieur, smoked trout salad with a poached egg. I ordered the special smoked salmon omelette and my friend chose the huevos rancheros with eggs over easy.
We were surprised by a complimentary plate of warm, sugar-sprinkled doughnut holes. (What a wonderful way to begin a brunch!) The entrees arrived without delay - according to my friend, many Williamsburg restaurants suffer from lackadaisical service - but not DuMont. The smoked salmon omelette was wonderfully fluffy with a filling of thick salmon slices and tangy puffs of dill-flecked goat cheese. Also served were a refreshing mixed green salad and some really amazing home fries. Large chunks of well-salted fried potato were perfectly crispy on the outside, light as air on the inside. The potatoes were mixed with onions and red peppers, and all vegetables kept their shape instead of being smooshed into an overcooked, unrecognizable mass. My friend liked his huevos rancheros with black beans (the avocado in his salad was a nice touch), but he preferred my entree. I tried to be generous with it.
The finishing touch was a warm, dense chocolate brownie with a scoop of vanilla bean ice cream!
Dumont: 432 Union Ave., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 486-7717.
Tuesday, September 19, 2006
The Ultimate Chocolate Eclair
If there's a better chocolate éclair than the one at Jacques Torres, I haven't found it. Chocolate cream, fluffy as pudding, is generously piped into a moist, eggy éclair shell, one half of which is thinly coated with what amounts to an entire semisweet chocolate bar criss-crossed with white chocolate. Why did I only buy one?
Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772, and 350 Hudson St., (212) 414-2462.
Jacques Torres Chocolate: 66 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 875-9772, and 350 Hudson St., (212) 414-2462.
Sunday, September 17, 2006
Convivium Osteria
I have a friend with the good fortune to live half a block away from Convivium Osteria. (Now if only I knew someone who lived across from Al Di La.) Yesterday was her birthday, and along with our companions, we celebrated in Convivium's intimate backyard garden. (The main room is lovely as well, with walls decorated by copper pots and long strings of garlic cloves.)
As we munched on olives and bread, my friend remarked how she felt transported far outside of Brooklyn. (Unfortunately, this mood would soon be marred by jarring music from the adjacent backyard. But such is life in the big city!)
Our waiter recommended a bottle of 2000 So Syrah, and we all got to work on choosing some appetizers and entrees. Because of the spinach crisis, a beet and spinach salad would be replaced by one made with watercress, walnut and Cabrales. Several dishes caught my eye: meat-filled cappeletti in a free-range hen consomme, pappardelle and braised oxtail, free-range quail in with figs and port wine sauce.
For appetizers, we ordered the watercress salad, pan-fried Portuguese sardines, and seafood assortment. The salad delighted me with its generously sprinkled, pungent Cabrales. A light walnut vinaigrette dressed the peppery watercress leaves. The seafood assortment included crab-stuffed red peppers, a prawn, fritters of salt cod and onion, and boquerones. These white anchovies were a pleasant surprise; they are sometimes overbrined.
My dinner selection was the artichoke Bel Paese ravioli in a butter sauce. Although I was a wee bit disappointed that there were only five ravioli surrounding the buttery artichoke hearts, the filling was very creamy and rich. I also got to taste the moist red snapper with capers, tomatoes and sliced potatoes, the pinenut-crusted rack of lamb with nicely-browned cauliflower, and a whole sea bass.
Dessert was excellent, especially the flourless chocolate cake. Not too dense or sweet, it was smooth in texture and melted in my mouth. A dollop of whipped cream and raspberries was a perfect garnish. I also liked the panna cotta smothered with blueberries and a plum tart sporting plenty of big tangy slices of plum and a buttery crust.
A few double espressos later, we noticed the anxious glances of our waiter - the line out Convivium's door had grown exponentially, so we vacated our seats for the next happy diners. (I recommend arriving around 6 or 6:30 p.m., if possible. Although Convivium is not quite as hard to get into as Al Di La, it's getting there!) I hope my friend had as good a time celebrating her birthday as I did.
Convivium Osteria: 68 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 857-1833.
As we munched on olives and bread, my friend remarked how she felt transported far outside of Brooklyn. (Unfortunately, this mood would soon be marred by jarring music from the adjacent backyard. But such is life in the big city!)
Our waiter recommended a bottle of 2000 So Syrah, and we all got to work on choosing some appetizers and entrees. Because of the spinach crisis, a beet and spinach salad would be replaced by one made with watercress, walnut and Cabrales. Several dishes caught my eye: meat-filled cappeletti in a free-range hen consomme, pappardelle and braised oxtail, free-range quail in with figs and port wine sauce.
For appetizers, we ordered the watercress salad, pan-fried Portuguese sardines, and seafood assortment. The salad delighted me with its generously sprinkled, pungent Cabrales. A light walnut vinaigrette dressed the peppery watercress leaves. The seafood assortment included crab-stuffed red peppers, a prawn, fritters of salt cod and onion, and boquerones. These white anchovies were a pleasant surprise; they are sometimes overbrined.
My dinner selection was the artichoke Bel Paese ravioli in a butter sauce. Although I was a wee bit disappointed that there were only five ravioli surrounding the buttery artichoke hearts, the filling was very creamy and rich. I also got to taste the moist red snapper with capers, tomatoes and sliced potatoes, the pinenut-crusted rack of lamb with nicely-browned cauliflower, and a whole sea bass.
Dessert was excellent, especially the flourless chocolate cake. Not too dense or sweet, it was smooth in texture and melted in my mouth. A dollop of whipped cream and raspberries was a perfect garnish. I also liked the panna cotta smothered with blueberries and a plum tart sporting plenty of big tangy slices of plum and a buttery crust.
A few double espressos later, we noticed the anxious glances of our waiter - the line out Convivium's door had grown exponentially, so we vacated our seats for the next happy diners. (I recommend arriving around 6 or 6:30 p.m., if possible. Although Convivium is not quite as hard to get into as Al Di La, it's getting there!) I hope my friend had as good a time celebrating her birthday as I did.
Convivium Osteria: 68 Fifth Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 857-1833.
Saturday, September 16, 2006
Summer's Last Berries at Almondine
It seems that summer has made a brief reappearance. Almondine, the French bakery owned by Jacques Torres and Herve Poussot, is celebrating by making use of the season's ripe strawberries in a refreshing ice cream shake topped with real whipped cream. The fresh berries are also featured atop a layer of pastry cream in Almondine's fruit tarts ($3.50). If raspberries are more your style, try the sugar-sprinkled raspberry version.
Almondine, 85 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 797-5026.
Almondine, 85 Water St., Brooklyn, (718) 797-5026.
Friday, September 15, 2006
Rasam: A Cure For What Ails You
The summer-to-fall transition sometimes challenges my immunity. Last night, I was feeling the beginnings of a cold, and I craved something spicy. However, I wondered if a bowl of soup might be more effective.
I found the best medicine at Chennai Garden, which serves rasam, an incredibly spicy South Indian soup. The light tamarind broth boasts a huge whole red chili in addition to bay leaves, diced tomatoes and black mustard seeds. When I ordered it, the waiter tried to dissuade me. I shocked him by drinking up the whole bowl and barely touching my glass of water. My eyes were watering and my throat was burning, but I forgot I even had a cold.
When the waiter brought the check, I told him my reason for ordering the rasam. "It will make you feel better," he said encouragingly. Indeed, I woke up today and the cold was gone!
Chennai Garden: 129 East 27th St., (212) 689-1999.
I found the best medicine at Chennai Garden, which serves rasam, an incredibly spicy South Indian soup. The light tamarind broth boasts a huge whole red chili in addition to bay leaves, diced tomatoes and black mustard seeds. When I ordered it, the waiter tried to dissuade me. I shocked him by drinking up the whole bowl and barely touching my glass of water. My eyes were watering and my throat was burning, but I forgot I even had a cold.
When the waiter brought the check, I told him my reason for ordering the rasam. "It will make you feel better," he said encouragingly. Indeed, I woke up today and the cold was gone!
Chennai Garden: 129 East 27th St., (212) 689-1999.
Monday, September 11, 2006
Restaurant SEO
This morning, I flipped to the Tokyo On The Hudson article in New York Magazine, and I immediately set about checking out some of the recommendations.
Unfortunately, I was to find that the article would lead me astray. Walking up and down 9th Ave., I was sure that I'd somehow missed the new Kyotofu dessert bar, but the treat emporium was nowhere to be found. Finally I realized that the half-painted, permit-plastered space at 705 Ninth Ave. was the site of the very unfinished Kyotofu.
My second stop was Conran's, where I intended to check out the Japanese style exhibition and perhaps buy some tableware. When I breathlessly asked where the items were, I was told that the exhibition didn't start until Thursday.
Now I was crestfallen, and hungry to boot. Thankfully, I happened upon Restaurant SEO, a small, authentic Japanese restaurant which features a peaceful rock garden. I sat down and devoured a tuna roll, which had a perfect tuna/rice ratio (tuna rolls at inferior establishments often skimp on the rosy pink fish). Then I enjoyed a bowl of surprisingly delicate tempura udon made with thin, slippery inaniwa udon noodles. (Previously, I had only been acquainted with the thicker variety.) The tempura included lightly fried Japanese eggplant and shrimp. A bowl of ume plum rice with shredded shiso was also served, but I would have been satisfied with a tiny plate of pickles. At meal's end, the waiter brought me a mug of roasted green tea. As I sipped it, I was thankful that at least one of my three missions was successful!
Restaurant SEO: 249 East 49th St., (212) 355-7722.
Unfortunately, I was to find that the article would lead me astray. Walking up and down 9th Ave., I was sure that I'd somehow missed the new Kyotofu dessert bar, but the treat emporium was nowhere to be found. Finally I realized that the half-painted, permit-plastered space at 705 Ninth Ave. was the site of the very unfinished Kyotofu.
My second stop was Conran's, where I intended to check out the Japanese style exhibition and perhaps buy some tableware. When I breathlessly asked where the items were, I was told that the exhibition didn't start until Thursday.
Now I was crestfallen, and hungry to boot. Thankfully, I happened upon Restaurant SEO, a small, authentic Japanese restaurant which features a peaceful rock garden. I sat down and devoured a tuna roll, which had a perfect tuna/rice ratio (tuna rolls at inferior establishments often skimp on the rosy pink fish). Then I enjoyed a bowl of surprisingly delicate tempura udon made with thin, slippery inaniwa udon noodles. (Previously, I had only been acquainted with the thicker variety.) The tempura included lightly fried Japanese eggplant and shrimp. A bowl of ume plum rice with shredded shiso was also served, but I would have been satisfied with a tiny plate of pickles. At meal's end, the waiter brought me a mug of roasted green tea. As I sipped it, I was thankful that at least one of my three missions was successful!
Restaurant SEO: 249 East 49th St., (212) 355-7722.
Sunday, September 10, 2006
A Very Exciting Package
I've just received an awfully intriguing package courtesy of Yellow Cottage Bakery, a small Wisconsin operation which specializes in chocolate-iced brownies. The package contains one dozen brownies in four varieties: chocolate, chocolate chunk, chocolate walnut and chocolate pecan. The treats are made with 100% natural ingredients like pure vanilla and Wisconsin butter.
Since I just spent the weekend at Mitsuwa's Hokkaido Food Festival, my appetite is somewhat compromised, but I should be able to fit in a brownie or two this evening. I'll report my brownie tasting results soon.
Updated to add: I hereby pronounce these brownies fudgy and wonderful!
Since I just spent the weekend at Mitsuwa's Hokkaido Food Festival, my appetite is somewhat compromised, but I should be able to fit in a brownie or two this evening. I'll report my brownie tasting results soon.
Updated to add: I hereby pronounce these brownies fudgy and wonderful!
Friday, September 08, 2006
Hokkaido Gourmet Food Fair at Mitsuwa
If you'd like to learn firsthand (and firstmouth) about the cuisine of Japan's northernmost island, head over to Mitsuwa Marketplace this weekend. (My friends tell me that the best sea urchin comes from Hokkaido.)
Mitsuwa, 595 River Road, Edgewater, NJ (201) 941-9113. The festival will be held Friday-Sunday.
Mitsuwa, 595 River Road, Edgewater, NJ (201) 941-9113. The festival will be held Friday-Sunday.
Friday, September 01, 2006
Momofuku Ssäm Bar
Noodle-soup-master Dave Chang has branched out into new starches with the opening of Momofuku Ssäm Bar. At this new, significantly larger space, he offers a simple menu of stuffed flour tortillas, rice bowls and steamed buns. As at Momofuku Noodle Bar, the ingredients are of high quality (Berkshire pork, organic chicken, Greenmarket corn), but the selections are more limited. Tortillas and rice come in three varieties: chicken, pork or shiitake. The stuffed tortillas are a healthy alternative to a burrito laden with sour cream and cheddar - they are crunchy with green soybeans and slaw, and if they're not spicy enough for you, drizzle on some of the Sriracha sauce.
Momofuku Ssäm Bar: 207 Second Ave., (212) 254-3500.
Momofuku Ssäm Bar: 207 Second Ave., (212) 254-3500.
Thursday, August 31, 2006
Coffee Nerds Unite
Daniel Humphries of Cafe Grumpy believes that there's not nearly the coffee culture in New York that this city deserves. However, he's determined to change this state of affairs by throwing a "solidarity event for coffee nerds." If you'd like to try some of the world's best coffees, check your caffeinated self at Cafe Grumpy's door on Wednesday, September 6th at 7:30 p.m. To RSVP, please E-mail daniel@cafegrumpy.com.
Cafe Grumpy: 193 Meserole Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 349-7623.
Cafe Grumpy: 193 Meserole Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 349-7623.
Monday, August 28, 2006
A Garden Getaway
I've just returned from a quite delicious trip to lush, green Vermont. You can read about this culinary expedition at Salli Vates' Traveling Food Page.
Sunday, August 20, 2006
Sweets News
- Chocolat Michel Cluizel is holding two tasting events on August 31 and September 14 from 7-8 p.m. A special chocolate sommelier will teach you the finer points of chocolate appreciation. Please call (212) 477-7335 for reservations.
- If you want to learn even more about chocolate, sign up for the French Culinary Institute's "Chocolate: The Obsession Defined" workshop. Not only will you learn how chocolate is manufactured, but you'll be able to make great chocolate desserts at home! For more information, please E-mail info@frenchculinary.com.
Tuesday, August 15, 2006
Cafe Condesa
A few months ago, I visited tiny, eight-table Cafe Condesa, which had just opened. I was amazed at how low the prices were (entrees were in the $8-$12 range) for such high-quality food. Now, Cafe Condesa has been "discovered" - reviews are starting to plaster the window, and it's much harder to secure a little black wooden table - but the prices and food haven't changed at all.
Chef Luis Mota works wonders in an open kitchen which is even smaller than the ones in most NYC apartments. Tonight, as I dipped my toasted bread in a gooey, melted wheel of Camembert, I remembered Mota saying that he begins prep work for dinner immediately after breakfast is over. (If you happen to get to Cafe Condesa for breakfast, you'll find fresh-baked muffins and great coffee.)
The dinner menu includes such items as fresh fettucini with Manchego and broccoli rabe, Spanish meatballs, roasted rack of lamb with a roasted wild mushroom-chimichurri sauce, and my choice of the evening: pan-seared salmon over a bed of sauteed spinach, surrounded by small pools of avocado puree, tomatillo salsa and pico de gallo. The portions at Cafe Condesa are small and elegant, like the restaurant.
I finished my meal with the dessert special: Earl Grey creme brulee. I scooped out every last bit of sugary burnt crust and every spoonful of rich custard. Then I got ready to leave, making sure I had all my things - the last time I ate at Cafe Condesa, I'd been in such a state of bliss that I left my jacket there.
Cafe Condesa: 183 West 10th St., (212) 352-0050.
Chef Luis Mota works wonders in an open kitchen which is even smaller than the ones in most NYC apartments. Tonight, as I dipped my toasted bread in a gooey, melted wheel of Camembert, I remembered Mota saying that he begins prep work for dinner immediately after breakfast is over. (If you happen to get to Cafe Condesa for breakfast, you'll find fresh-baked muffins and great coffee.)
The dinner menu includes such items as fresh fettucini with Manchego and broccoli rabe, Spanish meatballs, roasted rack of lamb with a roasted wild mushroom-chimichurri sauce, and my choice of the evening: pan-seared salmon over a bed of sauteed spinach, surrounded by small pools of avocado puree, tomatillo salsa and pico de gallo. The portions at Cafe Condesa are small and elegant, like the restaurant.
I finished my meal with the dessert special: Earl Grey creme brulee. I scooped out every last bit of sugary burnt crust and every spoonful of rich custard. Then I got ready to leave, making sure I had all my things - the last time I ate at Cafe Condesa, I'd been in such a state of bliss that I left my jacket there.
Cafe Condesa: 183 West 10th St., (212) 352-0050.
Sunday, August 06, 2006
Apizz
Apizz would be easy to miss were it not for its little red neon sign. Last night while we were walking around the Lower East Side, my companion and I were attracted by this sign and walked into a charming room with exposed brick walls and a mosaic skylight.
Although Apizz has a brick oven, we weren't really in the mood for pizza. So we started our meal with glasses of Primitivo, a simple spinach salad with pistachios and cannellini beans, and a plate of fried eggplant slices around a center of fresh, peppered ricotta. This was all pleasant enough, but my entree was the best dish of the meal: a lemon-stuffed whole roasted striped bass on a bed of charred thyme and rosemary, its skin crispy and well-salted. From now on, I must stuff all whole fish with lemon slices!
My companion's baked skate was tasty, although its breadcrumb topping was a bit soggy with all of that white wine and butter. The fish was served with sliced potatoes.
There were four desserts: apple crumble, cheesecake, gelato "sheetcakes" and warm flourless chocolate cake with a scoop of vanilla gelato. We chose the latter (of course) and were amply satisfied with its Valrhona richness. Although I personally prefer molten-centered chocolate cakes (and have written about them ad infinitum), I never met a chocolate cake I didn't like.
Apizz: 217 Eldridge St., (212) 253-9199.
Although Apizz has a brick oven, we weren't really in the mood for pizza. So we started our meal with glasses of Primitivo, a simple spinach salad with pistachios and cannellini beans, and a plate of fried eggplant slices around a center of fresh, peppered ricotta. This was all pleasant enough, but my entree was the best dish of the meal: a lemon-stuffed whole roasted striped bass on a bed of charred thyme and rosemary, its skin crispy and well-salted. From now on, I must stuff all whole fish with lemon slices!
My companion's baked skate was tasty, although its breadcrumb topping was a bit soggy with all of that white wine and butter. The fish was served with sliced potatoes.
There were four desserts: apple crumble, cheesecake, gelato "sheetcakes" and warm flourless chocolate cake with a scoop of vanilla gelato. We chose the latter (of course) and were amply satisfied with its Valrhona richness. Although I personally prefer molten-centered chocolate cakes (and have written about them ad infinitum), I never met a chocolate cake I didn't like.
Apizz: 217 Eldridge St., (212) 253-9199.
Saturday, July 29, 2006
Max Brenner - Part Two
I dropped by Max Brenner with a few friends for the whole chocolate experience. At 9:30 p.m., there was a 20-minute wait, but it quickly passed as we admired the offerings in the chocolate shop. I noticed an all-purpose product called Fresh - it's a fondue, mousse or hot chocolate depending on how you prepare it.
With Usher playing on the stereo and attractive couples sharing desserts, Max Brenner seemed like a real hotspot on its second day. We were led to a table upstairs and given the good news that everything we ordered would be discounted by 10% due to the grand opening.
There were two menus: sweet and savory. The savory menu consisted of quiche, sandwiches and salads, but we were really there for the sweet. Max Brenner offers chocolate in every conceivable permutation from the sublime to the insane. There are bagels filled with melted chocolate bars, warm chocolate soups, chocolate pizzas with grilled marshmallows, chocolate "messes" which you lift out of the pan with your spatula.
We opted for a peanut butter crepe, a chocolate-orange hot chocolate, a dark Venezuelan cocoa served in a "hug mug," and a melted chocolate heart cake. The chocolate-orange hot chocolate was exquisite - creamy and not too sweet, with a slight hint of citrus (if a little less than hot). The dark cocoa also suffered from a lukewarm temperature.
The paper-thin peanut butter crepe arrived with a small vial of peanut butter sauce, and the melted chocolate heart cake came with extra chocolate sauce, a dish of strawberries and vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate swirls. The rich cake was delicious but was not very warm, so the unmelted center had the consistency of frosting instead of syrup.
Judging from how packed the place was, I doubt anyone noticed these small shortcomings. I foresee a Max Brenner in every neighborhood.
Max Brenner: 841 Broadway, (212) 388-0030. Open at 5:30 p.m. for the next couple weeks; hours will then be extended.
With Usher playing on the stereo and attractive couples sharing desserts, Max Brenner seemed like a real hotspot on its second day. We were led to a table upstairs and given the good news that everything we ordered would be discounted by 10% due to the grand opening.
There were two menus: sweet and savory. The savory menu consisted of quiche, sandwiches and salads, but we were really there for the sweet. Max Brenner offers chocolate in every conceivable permutation from the sublime to the insane. There are bagels filled with melted chocolate bars, warm chocolate soups, chocolate pizzas with grilled marshmallows, chocolate "messes" which you lift out of the pan with your spatula.
We opted for a peanut butter crepe, a chocolate-orange hot chocolate, a dark Venezuelan cocoa served in a "hug mug," and a melted chocolate heart cake. The chocolate-orange hot chocolate was exquisite - creamy and not too sweet, with a slight hint of citrus (if a little less than hot). The dark cocoa also suffered from a lukewarm temperature.
The paper-thin peanut butter crepe arrived with a small vial of peanut butter sauce, and the melted chocolate heart cake came with extra chocolate sauce, a dish of strawberries and vanilla ice cream topped with chocolate swirls. The rich cake was delicious but was not very warm, so the unmelted center had the consistency of frosting instead of syrup.
Judging from how packed the place was, I doubt anyone noticed these small shortcomings. I foresee a Max Brenner in every neighborhood.
Max Brenner: 841 Broadway, (212) 388-0030. Open at 5:30 p.m. for the next couple weeks; hours will then be extended.
Thursday, July 27, 2006
Max Brenner - Part One
Max Brenner's Union Square location opened today at 5:30 p.m. I arrived at 5:37, and the loftlike space was already as packed as Shea Stadium during the Subway Series. I pushed through throngs of people to spy the Belgian waffles, brownies and refrigerated chocolate desserts at the take-out counter, but I didn't have time to sit in the large eat-in area. I almost tripped over someone as I made my way over to the small chocolate shop. Although I did snag a cocoa-and-praline-covered pecan sample, I felt so rushed that I will have to make another visit. But first I'll have to finish these boxes of pure milk chocolate thins and milk chocolate cubes filled with praline and caramelized pecan bits.
Max Brenner: 841 Broadway, (212) 388-0030.
Max Brenner: 841 Broadway, (212) 388-0030.
Thursday, July 20, 2006
Pierre Marcolini Chocolatier
I was on a mission to try new chocolates today. (I've already eaten my way through La Maison Du Chocolat, Richart, Jacques Torres, Michel Cluizel, Chocolate Bar, Cocoa Bar, Chocolate Room Brooklyn, Christopher Norman, Leonidas and MarieBelle.) However, my first two attempts were frustrated; the Max Brenner shop had not yet opened, and when I stopped by Debauve & Gallais, I was greeted by a sign that said they would be closed till July 25!
Fortunately, there were no such obstacles to my enjoyment of Pierre Marcolini, a Belgian chocolatier which opened a Park Avenue store in February 2005. I walked in and marveled at the single-origin cocoa line and the chocolate-chip marshmallows. There were two small tables for lingering, so I ordered some of the excellent Venetian coffee. I also delighted in various truffles, which were delicate in texture and precious in size. I loved the exotic four-spice salted butter caramel, and a dark chocolate-raspberry ganache encased in a white chocolate heart. The 64% cocoa truffle was smoky and intense.
I wanted to extend the bliss, so I left with a box of extra-thin filled chocolates: milk chocolate caramel, bitter ganache, dark chocolate with honey, and praline.
Pierre Marcolini Chocolatier: 485 Park Ave., (212) 755-5150.
Fortunately, there were no such obstacles to my enjoyment of Pierre Marcolini, a Belgian chocolatier which opened a Park Avenue store in February 2005. I walked in and marveled at the single-origin cocoa line and the chocolate-chip marshmallows. There were two small tables for lingering, so I ordered some of the excellent Venetian coffee. I also delighted in various truffles, which were delicate in texture and precious in size. I loved the exotic four-spice salted butter caramel, and a dark chocolate-raspberry ganache encased in a white chocolate heart. The 64% cocoa truffle was smoky and intense.
I wanted to extend the bliss, so I left with a box of extra-thin filled chocolates: milk chocolate caramel, bitter ganache, dark chocolate with honey, and praline.
Pierre Marcolini Chocolatier: 485 Park Ave., (212) 755-5150.
Tuesday, July 11, 2006
The 52nd Summer Fancy Food Show, New York
Where can you walk into a room filled with gourmet foods from all corners of the earth, and enjoy the attention of vendors who entreat you to try whatever you want? Why, the annual Fancy Food Show. If this event is at all indicative of the life of a food buyer, that life is an enviable one indeed.
I walked into the Javits Center with a food industry friend, and we were immediately plied with grilled Christis halloumi cheese from Cyprus. As we walked around, we saw that there was a preponderance of cheese, olives and chocolate. In the cheese category, we greatly enjoyed the luscious ValleBianca mozzarella di bufala and spicy Gorgonzola. Some other finds were the Cuevas marrons glaces from Spain, artisanal garlic pesto gorgonzola wood-fired pizzas from Pizza Roma, Dufflet maple-walnut cookies, fresh spinach-ricotta ravioli from Lazzaroni and Dolcetto tiramisu piroulines.
To quench our thirst, there was Metromint peppermint water and the delightful new fruit juices from Honest Tea. The limeade was amazing, with just a hint of sugar. (We weren't quite as fond of the Ginger Soother - it needed more zip.)
In the midst of all this, there was a woman passing out flyers advertising "Lose Weight In A Week!" How did she get in there?!?
I walked into the Javits Center with a food industry friend, and we were immediately plied with grilled Christis halloumi cheese from Cyprus. As we walked around, we saw that there was a preponderance of cheese, olives and chocolate. In the cheese category, we greatly enjoyed the luscious ValleBianca mozzarella di bufala and spicy Gorgonzola. Some other finds were the Cuevas marrons glaces from Spain, artisanal garlic pesto gorgonzola wood-fired pizzas from Pizza Roma, Dufflet maple-walnut cookies, fresh spinach-ricotta ravioli from Lazzaroni and Dolcetto tiramisu piroulines.
To quench our thirst, there was Metromint peppermint water and the delightful new fruit juices from Honest Tea. The limeade was amazing, with just a hint of sugar. (We weren't quite as fond of the Ginger Soother - it needed more zip.)
In the midst of all this, there was a woman passing out flyers advertising "Lose Weight In A Week!" How did she get in there?!?
Monday, July 10, 2006
Moto
It's amazing to me that this oh-so-European cafe was once a dreary, drop-ceilinged check cashing place with wall-to-wall carpeting. Although it's still situated right underneath elevated subway tracks, Moto has plenty of sepia-toned charm to spare - I'd like to sit there for hours with a cup of americano and a book.
This past weekend, I met a friend for brunch at Moto. After deliberating over the baked apple pancakes, ham-Swiss panini and Turkish breakfast, we ordered fresh-squeezed orange juice, a hearty breadless sandwich made up of layers of baked, browned eggs and ham, and two eggs in a tomato cream sauce. Both dishes were served with a green salad and well-buttered toast spears. Then we split a remarkable date cake which was surrounded by an ultra-rich, warm caramel sauce. (We fought over the whipped cream.)
Moto features a regular schedule of acoustic music!
Moto: 394 Broadway, Williamsburg, (718) 599-6895.
This past weekend, I met a friend for brunch at Moto. After deliberating over the baked apple pancakes, ham-Swiss panini and Turkish breakfast, we ordered fresh-squeezed orange juice, a hearty breadless sandwich made up of layers of baked, browned eggs and ham, and two eggs in a tomato cream sauce. Both dishes were served with a green salad and well-buttered toast spears. Then we split a remarkable date cake which was surrounded by an ultra-rich, warm caramel sauce. (We fought over the whipped cream.)
Moto features a regular schedule of acoustic music!
Moto: 394 Broadway, Williamsburg, (718) 599-6895.
Sunday, July 09, 2006
A Summer Sake Tasting Dinner
On July 18th at 8 p.m., sake sommelier Chizuko Niikawa will pair five summer sakes with Japanese dishes at Cha-An Tea House (230 East 9th St.). For more information and reservations, call (212) 228-8030.
Saturday, June 24, 2006
Una Pizza Napoletana (CLOSED 7/09)
Today, I braved the thunderstorms to travel over to the brand-new S'mac, home of 10 different varieties of homemade macaroni and cheese. Unfortunately for me, half of NYC had the same idea, and by the time I arrived, S'mac had actually run out of food. It was 6 p.m., and they would not reopen until 7. Crestfallen, I walked out of the shop. A few doors down, Una Pizza Napoletana was half-empty.
I'd always heard wonderful things about this little pizzeria, so I sat my cheese-craving self down. The room evoked simple, Old World charm, and the menu described mouth-watering ingredients such as San Marzano tomatoes, Southern Italian extra-virgin olive oil, and fresh buffalo mozzarella.
UPT offers only four pizzas: cheeseless tomato, tomato mozzarella, white pizza, and tomato cheese with cherry tomatoes. So, if you're looking for a ham pineapple shredded chicken affair (blasphemy!) this is not the place for you. But the ingredients are of such high quality, and the pizzas so lovingly and artfully prepared, that you won't miss a thing.
I ordered the Margherita (tomato mozzarella) and was struck by what an aromatic pizza it was. A tumble of moist fresh basil decorated the olive-oil drizzled center of the pizza. The dough was fresh, a bit tangy and only slightly charred. (Some famous pizzerias in town tend to over-blacken their crusts.) Chunks of tender buffalo mozzarella melted into rich, fluffy pillows over a simple, delicious tomato sauce. All of the components, delicious on their own, came together in a delectable synergy.
Yes, I will attempt to make another effort (or three) to sample S'mac. But if the lines are as long as those of Shake Shack, I'll just dine at my new favorite pizzeria.
Una Pizza Napoletana: 349 East 12th St., (212) 477-9950.
I'd always heard wonderful things about this little pizzeria, so I sat my cheese-craving self down. The room evoked simple, Old World charm, and the menu described mouth-watering ingredients such as San Marzano tomatoes, Southern Italian extra-virgin olive oil, and fresh buffalo mozzarella.
UPT offers only four pizzas: cheeseless tomato, tomato mozzarella, white pizza, and tomato cheese with cherry tomatoes. So, if you're looking for a ham pineapple shredded chicken affair (blasphemy!) this is not the place for you. But the ingredients are of such high quality, and the pizzas so lovingly and artfully prepared, that you won't miss a thing.
I ordered the Margherita (tomato mozzarella) and was struck by what an aromatic pizza it was. A tumble of moist fresh basil decorated the olive-oil drizzled center of the pizza. The dough was fresh, a bit tangy and only slightly charred. (Some famous pizzerias in town tend to over-blacken their crusts.) Chunks of tender buffalo mozzarella melted into rich, fluffy pillows over a simple, delicious tomato sauce. All of the components, delicious on their own, came together in a delectable synergy.
Yes, I will attempt to make another effort (or three) to sample S'mac. But if the lines are as long as those of Shake Shack, I'll just dine at my new favorite pizzeria.
Una Pizza Napoletana: 349 East 12th St., (212) 477-9950.
Friday, June 16, 2006
Ice Cream Season!
As the temperature approaches 90 degrees, you might be craving ice cream. Yesterday, I certainly was, and found myself at Whole Foods buying a pint of this and a pint of that. When I got home, I realized that I'd stumbled upon one of the most delicious ice creams in existence: Laloo's Goat's Milk Ice Cream. Whole Foods carries the Black Mission Fig, Deep Chocolate, Molasses Tipsycake and Vanilla Snowflake flavors. (I'm now on the lookout for Strawberry Darling: strawberries swirled in a balsamic vinegar reduction!)
The creamy, custardy Vanilla Snowflake was quite possibly the best vanilla ice cream I've ever eaten. (I enjoyed it with some Nairn's ginger biscuits and some ripe, plump California cherries.) Amazingly, I preferred the vanilla to the Deep Chocolate, which, although excellent, was slightly less rich than I expected.
The Molasses Tipsycake was a cinnamony, oatmeal-cookie-crumbled, raisin-studded affair. (Ben and Jerry's, eat your heart out!)
For those of you who aren't fond of the distinctive taste of goat's milk (I love it), Laloo's ice cream is quite mild.
The creamy, custardy Vanilla Snowflake was quite possibly the best vanilla ice cream I've ever eaten. (I enjoyed it with some Nairn's ginger biscuits and some ripe, plump California cherries.) Amazingly, I preferred the vanilla to the Deep Chocolate, which, although excellent, was slightly less rich than I expected.
The Molasses Tipsycake was a cinnamony, oatmeal-cookie-crumbled, raisin-studded affair. (Ben and Jerry's, eat your heart out!)
For those of you who aren't fond of the distinctive taste of goat's milk (I love it), Laloo's ice cream is quite mild.
Monday, June 12, 2006
A Transcendent Sandwich At Tost
Last night, I enjoyed an incredibly tasty sandwich at Tost Panini and Wine Bar. Normally, when I order panini, I opt for a version which includes melted cheese. (There are many such selections at Tost, including speck-Taleggio-pesto, mozzarella-tomato-basil, and chicken-Fontina-basil.) But for some reason, the sardine sandwich called to me - and what an amazing sandwich it turned out to be! Two sturdy, spicy mayo-moistened slices of grilled bread bookended a filling of slightly briny chopped sardines, capers, and tart roasted tomatoes. The bread was crisp and golden-brown, not overtoasted.
Besides panini, Tost offers bruschetta, salads, cured meats, cheeses, and sweets (lavender panna cotta, anyone?).
Tost Panini and Wine Bar: 427 7th Ave., Park Slope, (718) 965-1075.
Besides panini, Tost offers bruschetta, salads, cured meats, cheeses, and sweets (lavender panna cotta, anyone?).
Tost Panini and Wine Bar: 427 7th Ave., Park Slope, (718) 965-1075.
Wednesday, June 07, 2006
Top-Of-The-Line Sushi in Port Washington
I just had a good feeling about Yamaguchi when I walked in. Elderly Japanese women were happily chatting at the sushi bar, and a couple waited for a table to empty. Also, the sign font was right. This may sound strange, but I avoid Japanese restaurants which use the "bamboo" font in their logos.
Soon, I realized that I had found a beloved neighborhood gem. (What a wonderful feeling that is.) I sat down at the sushi bar and ordered the sushi sashimi lunch. I also attempted to order a tempura appetizer, but the waitress dissuaded me, saying I'd be too full. She was right. I couldn't even finish all the crimson slivers of tuna sashimi, buttery yellowtail slabs, sesame-sprinkled cucumber rolls, shrimp, fluke, clam, egg and salmon. And this was just the lunch portion!
Yamaguchi is for the purist; you won't find any spicy mayonnaisey maki here, but you'll be totally fulfilled by the excellent quality of the fish.
Restaurant Yamaguchi: 63 Main St., Port Washington, LI (516) 883-3500. Worth the trip from Manhattan, just take the Port Washington line from Penn Station.
Soon, I realized that I had found a beloved neighborhood gem. (What a wonderful feeling that is.) I sat down at the sushi bar and ordered the sushi sashimi lunch. I also attempted to order a tempura appetizer, but the waitress dissuaded me, saying I'd be too full. She was right. I couldn't even finish all the crimson slivers of tuna sashimi, buttery yellowtail slabs, sesame-sprinkled cucumber rolls, shrimp, fluke, clam, egg and salmon. And this was just the lunch portion!
Yamaguchi is for the purist; you won't find any spicy mayonnaisey maki here, but you'll be totally fulfilled by the excellent quality of the fish.
Restaurant Yamaguchi: 63 Main St., Port Washington, LI (516) 883-3500. Worth the trip from Manhattan, just take the Port Washington line from Penn Station.
Thursday, June 01, 2006
Just My Luck!
After reading this article about Amedei Chocolates, I immediately set about finding a way to order them! But alas... I just received this E-mail:
Dear Salli Vates:
Thank you very much for your recent order of Amedei chocolates. We hope you (or the recipient you have named) will deeply enjoy the tasting experience to come.
Extraordinary demand resulting from the recent publication of an article about Amedei from Food & Wine magazine on MSN.com has regrettably caused a temporary back-order situation which may delay your shipment.
We are taking the following steps to assure that everyone who may be affected by this receives his/her products as quickly as possible:
- We are shipping first to those who ordered on an expedited basis. Expedited orders will be processed first come, first served.
- We are shipping next to those who ordered with standard shipping, with preference to those who indicated at order time that the shipment is a gift.
- If your order value (before shipping and handling) is in excess of $50, we will upgrade you to expedited shipping at our expense.
We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause, and we deeply appreciate your patience while we work to accelerate the delivery your order.
Sincerely,
The Gourmet Services Team, Amedei US
Gourmet.Services@Amedei-US.com
www.Amedei-US.com
(sigh)
Dear Salli Vates:
Thank you very much for your recent order of Amedei chocolates. We hope you (or the recipient you have named) will deeply enjoy the tasting experience to come.
Extraordinary demand resulting from the recent publication of an article about Amedei from Food & Wine magazine on MSN.com has regrettably caused a temporary back-order situation which may delay your shipment.
We are taking the following steps to assure that everyone who may be affected by this receives his/her products as quickly as possible:
- We are shipping first to those who ordered on an expedited basis. Expedited orders will be processed first come, first served.
- We are shipping next to those who ordered with standard shipping, with preference to those who indicated at order time that the shipment is a gift.
- If your order value (before shipping and handling) is in excess of $50, we will upgrade you to expedited shipping at our expense.
We apologize for any inconvenience this may cause, and we deeply appreciate your patience while we work to accelerate the delivery your order.
Sincerely,
The Gourmet Services Team, Amedei US
Gourmet.Services@Amedei-US.com
www.Amedei-US.com
(sigh)
Saturday, May 27, 2006
Brunch At Old Devil Moon
Long before Blue Smoke and Biscuit, there was Old Devil Moon - a small, Southern joint friendly to both meatophiles and vegetarians. For 14 years, Old Devil Moon has served one of the heartiest, reasonably-priced brunches in the city.
My companion and I took a friend with Southern roots there today - we thought he would appreciate the cheese grits. I agonized over my choice... would it be the huge Fisherman's breakfast (fried catfish, eggs, garlic greens, grits, a large fluffy biscuit with homemade wild blueberry and peach preserves), the McMoon egg, cheddar and meat (bacon, sausage or veggie sausage) sandwich with grits or homefries, or the truly formidable Hungry Man breakfast (3 eggs, a stack of corn or whole wheat pancakes, cheddar grits and choice of meat)?
My companion, in an attempt at healthful eating, ordered the greens, beans and grits - with no eggs! I finally decided on that huge, eggs-spilling-over-the-edges McMoon. Although this sandwich was quite tasty, the biscuit was burnt on top. However, the biscuit in our friend's Fisherman's Breakfast was just perfect.
Old Devil Moon is so (deservedly) popular that you must have your entire party present in order to be seated.
Old Devil Moon: 511 East 12th St., (212) 475-4357.
My companion and I took a friend with Southern roots there today - we thought he would appreciate the cheese grits. I agonized over my choice... would it be the huge Fisherman's breakfast (fried catfish, eggs, garlic greens, grits, a large fluffy biscuit with homemade wild blueberry and peach preserves), the McMoon egg, cheddar and meat (bacon, sausage or veggie sausage) sandwich with grits or homefries, or the truly formidable Hungry Man breakfast (3 eggs, a stack of corn or whole wheat pancakes, cheddar grits and choice of meat)?
My companion, in an attempt at healthful eating, ordered the greens, beans and grits - with no eggs! I finally decided on that huge, eggs-spilling-over-the-edges McMoon. Although this sandwich was quite tasty, the biscuit was burnt on top. However, the biscuit in our friend's Fisherman's Breakfast was just perfect.
Old Devil Moon is so (deservedly) popular that you must have your entire party present in order to be seated.
Old Devil Moon: 511 East 12th St., (212) 475-4357.
Saturday, May 20, 2006
Sweets News
- Mon Repas, a shop featuring crepes, galettes, Callebaut-coated Belgian waffles and Liege caramelized sugar waffles, opens officially on Monday. If a regular-sized waffle is too much for you, you'll be able to buy a bag of minis. (50 West 8th St., (212) 254-0787.)
- The upcoming issue of Pastry Art & Design will include an article I wrote about the careers of today's pastry chefs. I interviewed eight chefs who are embarking on exciting new paths, opening dessert cafes, savory shops and more!
Friday, May 19, 2006
Sorrel
Sorrel's soothing, well-lit room sits at the end of a row of charming Brooklyn brownstones. I dream of living in one of those brownstones and indulging in Sorrel's $25 prix fixe every night. Even though I live nowhere near Prospect Heights, I know I'll be back to live the fantasy!
A recent meal at Sorrel was full of fresh spring vegetables. My friend and I began with the olive-oil drizzled white asparagus, which was livened up with olives and slivers of Parmgiano Reggiano, and the peppery chilled sweet corn soup. Then came the rich slices of Long Island duck in a sweetish orange sauce and lentils, and well-seared scallops over a tumble of corn and diced red peppers.
Although my friend isn't much of a dessert fan, she finished every last spoonful of her semisweet chocolate mousse. I opted for the slightly lighter orange-yogurt panna cotta, which was a refreshing, citrusy end to a delightful meal.
Sorrel: 605 Carlton Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 622-1190.
A recent meal at Sorrel was full of fresh spring vegetables. My friend and I began with the olive-oil drizzled white asparagus, which was livened up with olives and slivers of Parmgiano Reggiano, and the peppery chilled sweet corn soup. Then came the rich slices of Long Island duck in a sweetish orange sauce and lentils, and well-seared scallops over a tumble of corn and diced red peppers.
Although my friend isn't much of a dessert fan, she finished every last spoonful of her semisweet chocolate mousse. I opted for the slightly lighter orange-yogurt panna cotta, which was a refreshing, citrusy end to a delightful meal.
Sorrel: 605 Carlton Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 622-1190.
Tuesday, May 16, 2006
Attention All Literary-Minded Foodies!
Newly-launched Alimentum Journal is presenting a special reading at the Mercantile Library (17 East 47th St.) on May 22nd at 6:30 pm. And if your interest lies in reading rather than eating, there will be an appetizer-and-wine reception afterwards. Call (212) 755-6710 for more information.
Monday, May 08, 2006
Tempo (CLOSED 5/09 - how sad!)
Amazingly, many of Tempo's tables stood empty on Sunday night. (In contrast, the far inferior Aunt Suzie's boasted a line out the door.) Fortunately, I was able to enlarge my party to four without any reservation trouble.
Despite a few minor service issues, we all greatly enjoyed our meals. I reveled in the special appetizer: a large hunk of creamy burrata topped with a blanket of black olive tapenade.
My pan-seared black sea bass on a bed of arugula was expertly prepared, if slightly less notable than my friends' entrees, which consisted of: the outstanding tagliatelle trifolata - a tumble of hand-cut noodles in a luxuriant, rich mushroom sauce (I had a serious case of dinner envy there!), a roasted whole orata, which was served with a tableside drizzle of blood orange olive oil, and Arctic char with English peas, mint and Meyer lemon-buttered gnocchi. (We also ordered the chick pea fries, which, if not quite as light as Nice Matin's panelles, were very satisfying with their lemony mayonnaise. The chick pea fritter also makes an appearance in a sandwich at next door's Tempo Presto.)
For once I regretted my habitual chocolate dessert choice; I found myself chipping away at my friend's ricotta cheesecake with rhubarb compote. Still, I enjoyed the rich, multi-layered Brooklyn blackout cake, if I missed the advertised mocha whipped cream. I would love to make a repeat visit to Tempo; next time I might order differently. (One question... will the still-standing "Cucina Way" sign on 5th Avenue be replaced by one that reads "Tempo Way?")
Tempo: 256 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 636-2020.
Despite a few minor service issues, we all greatly enjoyed our meals. I reveled in the special appetizer: a large hunk of creamy burrata topped with a blanket of black olive tapenade.
My pan-seared black sea bass on a bed of arugula was expertly prepared, if slightly less notable than my friends' entrees, which consisted of: the outstanding tagliatelle trifolata - a tumble of hand-cut noodles in a luxuriant, rich mushroom sauce (I had a serious case of dinner envy there!), a roasted whole orata, which was served with a tableside drizzle of blood orange olive oil, and Arctic char with English peas, mint and Meyer lemon-buttered gnocchi. (We also ordered the chick pea fries, which, if not quite as light as Nice Matin's panelles, were very satisfying with their lemony mayonnaise. The chick pea fritter also makes an appearance in a sandwich at next door's Tempo Presto.)
For once I regretted my habitual chocolate dessert choice; I found myself chipping away at my friend's ricotta cheesecake with rhubarb compote. Still, I enjoyed the rich, multi-layered Brooklyn blackout cake, if I missed the advertised mocha whipped cream. I would love to make a repeat visit to Tempo; next time I might order differently. (One question... will the still-standing "Cucina Way" sign on 5th Avenue be replaced by one that reads "Tempo Way?")
Tempo: 256 5th Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 636-2020.
Thursday, May 04, 2006
Bad News For Coffee Achievers
Apparently, Wolfgang Puck's futuristic self-heating lattes are already a thing of the past.
Sunday, April 30, 2006
Chiyono
I'd been meeting to visit this Japanese home-cooking spot for ages, but I kept forgetting the address. For some reason, it never registered with me that the restaurant was right by the prominent Mara's Homemade. Tonight, I walked by Mara's Arkansas barbeque ad and right into lovely little Chiyono.
A large vase of cherry blossoms decorated the long communal wooden table. (Chiyono pays special attention to the seasons; fried oysters are only available in winter, and fried eggplant in summer.) Since I had arrived between the hours of 5 and 6 p.m., the omakase (special multi-course meal) was still available. But at Chiyono, the omakase is not a special plate of sushi and sashimi; it is a dinner set of three appetizers, burdock soup, a choice of yuzu miso salmon or a fried sardine croquette, special rice, and dessert of the day. Since I have quite a large appetite, I ordered this special meal.
The set of three vegetable appetizers included a julienne of carrots and burdock in hot sesame oil, two chunks of Japanese eggplant, and a wonderful rendition of hijiki edamame salad, neither too sweet nor too vinegary. A well-peppered potato-burdock soup arrived afterwards.
Then, a plate of two large, miso-glazed, citrus-spiked salmon steaks arrived with a side of Japanese potato salad. Interestingly, the salad included golden raisins among the usual onions and cucumbers. I was also served a bowl of seasoned white rice; dried plums provided a smoky saltiness, and there were also sesame seeds and slivers of licorice-like shiso. I was amazed that the slightest sprinkling of these ingredients made the rice so flavorful.
The special dessert celebrated spring. Small preserved cherry blossoms had been baked into the green mugwort "chiffon" pound cake. A subtle sesame pudding, a spoonful of sweet azuki beans, a dollop of whipped cream and some sliced strawberries and apples completed the sweet. I also enjoyed the accompanying cup of roasted rice tea.
Towards the end of the meal, Chiyono herself came over to my table and talked about the special ingredients she cooks with. I was delighted to have made such a charming acquaintance and will certainly be back soon.
Chiyono: 328 East 6th St., (212) 673-3984.
A large vase of cherry blossoms decorated the long communal wooden table. (Chiyono pays special attention to the seasons; fried oysters are only available in winter, and fried eggplant in summer.) Since I had arrived between the hours of 5 and 6 p.m., the omakase (special multi-course meal) was still available. But at Chiyono, the omakase is not a special plate of sushi and sashimi; it is a dinner set of three appetizers, burdock soup, a choice of yuzu miso salmon or a fried sardine croquette, special rice, and dessert of the day. Since I have quite a large appetite, I ordered this special meal.
The set of three vegetable appetizers included a julienne of carrots and burdock in hot sesame oil, two chunks of Japanese eggplant, and a wonderful rendition of hijiki edamame salad, neither too sweet nor too vinegary. A well-peppered potato-burdock soup arrived afterwards.
Then, a plate of two large, miso-glazed, citrus-spiked salmon steaks arrived with a side of Japanese potato salad. Interestingly, the salad included golden raisins among the usual onions and cucumbers. I was also served a bowl of seasoned white rice; dried plums provided a smoky saltiness, and there were also sesame seeds and slivers of licorice-like shiso. I was amazed that the slightest sprinkling of these ingredients made the rice so flavorful.
The special dessert celebrated spring. Small preserved cherry blossoms had been baked into the green mugwort "chiffon" pound cake. A subtle sesame pudding, a spoonful of sweet azuki beans, a dollop of whipped cream and some sliced strawberries and apples completed the sweet. I also enjoyed the accompanying cup of roasted rice tea.
Towards the end of the meal, Chiyono herself came over to my table and talked about the special ingredients she cooks with. I was delighted to have made such a charming acquaintance and will certainly be back soon.
Chiyono: 328 East 6th St., (212) 673-3984.
Monday, April 24, 2006
A New Chocolatier In Town!
I never had the chance to dine at Zakuro before it closed, but I'm aflush with excitement about what's planned for the space it occupied. Max Brenner Chocolates, which used to operate the most wonderful chocolate bar at Harrod's, opens at 141 2nd Ave. on July 1. Another location, at 841 Broadway, will be opening on June 1. If my memory serves me well, Max Brenner will give ABC's Michel Cluizel Cafe a run for its money.
Max Brenner: (212) 896-3886.
Max Brenner: (212) 896-3886.
Saturday, April 22, 2006
Divine Frites At Cafe D'Alsace
Every so often, I'll develop a craving for a food other than chocolate. Strangely, this morning I awoke with a desire for French fries. I'd read something about the truffled asiago frites at David Burke at Bloomingdales (59th & Lexington Ave.), so I thought I'd start there.
I can't say that the cafe was inviting. The narrow room was packed with tired shoppers, and I was shunted to an uncomfortable stool by the window. I got hold of a harried waiter and ordered the fabled frites. When they arrived, they were cold and soggy. The truffle oil was a nice touch, but the shredded asiago was dry and cold, and the frites weren't well-salted. I didn't finish them (which is saying a lot).
This evening, I had another chance to satisfy my craving, and the second time was the charm. I took Grandma and Auntie over to the six-week-old Cafe D'Alsace, which is the first Upper East Side outpost of the French mini-empire which includes Nice Matin and Pigalle. (How perfect is it that the Alsatian restaurant landed in Yorkville?) I asked for the pommes frites (along with a Riesling-cream-sauced grilled brook trout garnished with white grapes and diced tomatoes) and they arrived piping hot, well-salted, golden-brown-crunchy and soft on the inside. Wonderful!
Cafe D'Alsace: 1695 2nd Ave., (212) 722-5133.
I can't say that the cafe was inviting. The narrow room was packed with tired shoppers, and I was shunted to an uncomfortable stool by the window. I got hold of a harried waiter and ordered the fabled frites. When they arrived, they were cold and soggy. The truffle oil was a nice touch, but the shredded asiago was dry and cold, and the frites weren't well-salted. I didn't finish them (which is saying a lot).
This evening, I had another chance to satisfy my craving, and the second time was the charm. I took Grandma and Auntie over to the six-week-old Cafe D'Alsace, which is the first Upper East Side outpost of the French mini-empire which includes Nice Matin and Pigalle. (How perfect is it that the Alsatian restaurant landed in Yorkville?) I asked for the pommes frites (along with a Riesling-cream-sauced grilled brook trout garnished with white grapes and diced tomatoes) and they arrived piping hot, well-salted, golden-brown-crunchy and soft on the inside. Wonderful!
Cafe D'Alsace: 1695 2nd Ave., (212) 722-5133.
Tuesday, April 18, 2006
Barbounia
"How on earth did they get this octopus so tender?" I marveled. "It's blanched three times and then fire-grilled," said our waiter. The charred octopus appetizer, which also featured crunchy crystallized lemon zest, yellow grape tomatoes and fava beans, was the highlight of my meal at Barbounia.
I'd originally intended to try the restaurant's namesake appetizer (crispy barbounia), but due to weather conditions, the shipments of the little mullet had not arrived. So, in addition to the octopus, my companion and I ordered a picnic of starters: a board of sweet Italian salami with a tin of cornichons, and the trio of cheeses: olive-oil drizzled Parmesan and Taleggio with a terrine of pesto-topped ricotta. Oval cherry toasts, a branch of red grapes and some fig chutney accompanied the cheese. I wanted to order another serving and bring it to Central Park!
While we enjoyed the cheese, we sipped Abando Crianza, one of the excellent selections from the 20-page wine menu. (There was a rather long wait for the entree as the restaurant became increasingly full.) We shared the grilled dourade, which was crispy-skinned and redolent of thyme. Our sides were the herbed sunchokes and the creamy mascarpone polenta (yes, it's as good as it sounds).
Even though the cheese board was so dessertlike, we still ordered the special Moroccan chocolate pudding. This chocolate-cinnamon mousse was so dense that I could've eaten it with a knife and fork! It was topped with a healthy layer of whipped cream and served with churros. The fried donuts were not crunchy at all, but feather-light.
Barbounia: 250 Park Ave. South, (212) 995-0242.
I'd originally intended to try the restaurant's namesake appetizer (crispy barbounia), but due to weather conditions, the shipments of the little mullet had not arrived. So, in addition to the octopus, my companion and I ordered a picnic of starters: a board of sweet Italian salami with a tin of cornichons, and the trio of cheeses: olive-oil drizzled Parmesan and Taleggio with a terrine of pesto-topped ricotta. Oval cherry toasts, a branch of red grapes and some fig chutney accompanied the cheese. I wanted to order another serving and bring it to Central Park!
While we enjoyed the cheese, we sipped Abando Crianza, one of the excellent selections from the 20-page wine menu. (There was a rather long wait for the entree as the restaurant became increasingly full.) We shared the grilled dourade, which was crispy-skinned and redolent of thyme. Our sides were the herbed sunchokes and the creamy mascarpone polenta (yes, it's as good as it sounds).
Even though the cheese board was so dessertlike, we still ordered the special Moroccan chocolate pudding. This chocolate-cinnamon mousse was so dense that I could've eaten it with a knife and fork! It was topped with a healthy layer of whipped cream and served with churros. The fried donuts were not crunchy at all, but feather-light.
Barbounia: 250 Park Ave. South, (212) 995-0242.
Sunday, April 16, 2006
Cha-An
Many restaurants stop serving lunch around 2:30 p.m. Often, I'll neglect to check my watch and then walk around in a hungry haze, wishing I hadn't missed the cut-off. Fortunately, I now have a trusty standby for those hours between lunch and dinner: Cha-An.
The menu is limited at this Japanese teahouse, but there's a wonderful lunch set (the "B") with changing selections. Today, the B included: two jumbo shrimp in a gelatinous spicy ginger-chili sauce, a tiny slice of quiche, crunchy hunks of bamboo shoot with caramelized onions, creamy seafood chowder with tomatoes, onions and shiitakes, tea-smoked salmon slices under a refreshing shredded radish and sprout salad, 15-grain rice, and finally, chocolate cake with mousse, cherries and vanilla ice cream. All of this was accompanied by a pot of my favorite Japanese tea, genmaicha!
Cha-An: 230 East 9th St., 2nd Floor, (212) 228-8030.
The menu is limited at this Japanese teahouse, but there's a wonderful lunch set (the "B") with changing selections. Today, the B included: two jumbo shrimp in a gelatinous spicy ginger-chili sauce, a tiny slice of quiche, crunchy hunks of bamboo shoot with caramelized onions, creamy seafood chowder with tomatoes, onions and shiitakes, tea-smoked salmon slices under a refreshing shredded radish and sprout salad, 15-grain rice, and finally, chocolate cake with mousse, cherries and vanilla ice cream. All of this was accompanied by a pot of my favorite Japanese tea, genmaicha!
Cha-An: 230 East 9th St., 2nd Floor, (212) 228-8030.
Saturday, April 15, 2006
Find Friends Through Chocolate!
Clay Gordon (of Chocophile fame) is now hosting regular meetups at which like-palated people indulge in fine chocolates. But if you're not in the New York area, don't despair... chocolate lovers are everywhere!
Sunday, April 09, 2006
Gribouille Patisserie Traditionelle (CLOSED)
"We printed out 100 take-out menus this morning, but they're already gone," said Timothy, the Parisian owner of the two-week-old Gribouille. I'm gratified at the instant popularity of this wonderul bakery-cafe! Among its many offerings are: quiche Lorraine both with and without bacon, Petrossian salmon sandwiches on fresh-baked brioche, organic omelettes, chocolate or coffee eclairs, lemon tarts, and delectable meringue-topped chocolate cupcakes. (Don't forget to ask for a "carte de fidelite" - once you've bought 10 pastries, they give you one free!) Timothy told me that he loves having his own cafe because he can serve all of his favorite foods. (They will likely become your favorites too.)
Gribouille Patisserie Traditionelle: 2 Hope St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 384-3100.
Gribouille Patisserie Traditionelle: 2 Hope St., Williamsburg, Brooklyn, (718) 384-3100.
Thursday, April 06, 2006
Fresh-Baked Cookies...
...and performance art. Where might you find this juxtaposition? At PS1 Contemporary Art Center (22-25 Jackson Ave, LIC, Queens) this Sunday, April 9th from 3-6 p.m. The Scratch 'n Sniff Duo will be baking cookies while mixing live beats and sounds to celebrate the opening of PS1's "Reprocessing Reality" exhibit. Admission is free, and the cookies are as well.
Wednesday, April 05, 2006
Bouchon Bakery Snafu
As someone who hasn't yet scored a reservation at Per Se (I'm not very persistent), I was thrilled about the recent opening of Thomas Keller's Bouchon Bakery. However, my first experience was disappointing, and not because of the pastries (which were excellent).
I stepped out of the elevator, and there across from the A/X store was a display of the most exquisite danishes and tarts. Being in a comfort-food mood, I skipped over the beautiful mille-feuille napoleons and, in quick succession, ordered two vegetable jardiniere sandwiches, one giant chocolate-chip cookie, a TKO (buttercream Oreo) cookie, two "bouchons" (slightly-bigger-than-bite-sized brownies), a tuna Nicoise on ciabatta, an Illy cappuccino and finally, a beribboned bag of the aforementioned bouchons (I thought my grandmother might like them).
After browsing at Borders, I subwayed home and prepared to enjoy one of the jardinnieres, which had been advertised as containing sweet piquillo peppers. To my dismay, I realized that the bag was missing several important items. The two vegetable sandwiches were absent, but in a far greater tragedy for a chocolate-lover, the bag of bouchons was missing!
Morosely, I munched on my (terrific, olive-heavy) tuna Nicoise as I pondered whether I should call the bakery to try to claim the missing edibles. I'd paid in cash and hadn't kept my receipt.
There was no direct line to the bakery, just a voice recording, so I left a message for the cafe manager. She called back almost immediately and apologized, saying that if I returned, she would make sure that I received the sandwiches and "something extra for my trouble." By this time, the cafe was about to close, so I'd have to wait at least a day.
After one taste of the bouchon (meltingly chocolatey even at room temperature) I realized that I must return as soon as possible. The next day, I went back to the bakery, but the manager I had spoken with was not there! I explained my predicament to the slightly suspicious cafe personnel, and they packed up a bag of sandwiches, gherkins and bouchons for me.
Bouchon Bakery is definitely worth a second visit, no matter what the reason!
Bouchon Bakery: Shops at Columbus Circle, 3rd Floor, (212) 823-9366.
I stepped out of the elevator, and there across from the A/X store was a display of the most exquisite danishes and tarts. Being in a comfort-food mood, I skipped over the beautiful mille-feuille napoleons and, in quick succession, ordered two vegetable jardiniere sandwiches, one giant chocolate-chip cookie, a TKO (buttercream Oreo) cookie, two "bouchons" (slightly-bigger-than-bite-sized brownies), a tuna Nicoise on ciabatta, an Illy cappuccino and finally, a beribboned bag of the aforementioned bouchons (I thought my grandmother might like them).
After browsing at Borders, I subwayed home and prepared to enjoy one of the jardinnieres, which had been advertised as containing sweet piquillo peppers. To my dismay, I realized that the bag was missing several important items. The two vegetable sandwiches were absent, but in a far greater tragedy for a chocolate-lover, the bag of bouchons was missing!
Morosely, I munched on my (terrific, olive-heavy) tuna Nicoise as I pondered whether I should call the bakery to try to claim the missing edibles. I'd paid in cash and hadn't kept my receipt.
There was no direct line to the bakery, just a voice recording, so I left a message for the cafe manager. She called back almost immediately and apologized, saying that if I returned, she would make sure that I received the sandwiches and "something extra for my trouble." By this time, the cafe was about to close, so I'd have to wait at least a day.
After one taste of the bouchon (meltingly chocolatey even at room temperature) I realized that I must return as soon as possible. The next day, I went back to the bakery, but the manager I had spoken with was not there! I explained my predicament to the slightly suspicious cafe personnel, and they packed up a bag of sandwiches, gherkins and bouchons for me.
Bouchon Bakery is definitely worth a second visit, no matter what the reason!
Bouchon Bakery: Shops at Columbus Circle, 3rd Floor, (212) 823-9366.
Wednesday, March 29, 2006
No. 28
Many shed a tear at the shuttering of Grilled Cheese NYC. But today, I tasted the Italian equivalent of the best grilled cheese sandwich ever. No. 28, an authentic Neopolitan brick-oven pizza joint, serves a sumptuous 3-cheese piadina which outshines anything I ever ate at Grilled Cheese. The big round flatbread is alternately crispy and chewy, and it's stuffed with a perfect blend of melty Mozzarella, smoky Provolone and a hint of spicy Gorgonzola. Pure heaven.
(For those who are interested, No. 28 also happens to be the default neighborhood hangout for fans of international soccer. The restaurant's lights brighten during the commercials and are dimmed during the game.)
No. 28: 28 Carmine St., (212) 463-9653.
(For those who are interested, No. 28 also happens to be the default neighborhood hangout for fans of international soccer. The restaurant's lights brighten during the commercials and are dimmed during the game.)
No. 28: 28 Carmine St., (212) 463-9653.
Tuesday, March 28, 2006
Blossom
I'm always curious about a new vegan restaurant, but I'm less than enamored of Gobo and Zen Palate. Eternally hopeful, I enlisted the palate of a vegetarian friend and we made a visit to Blossom last night.
The wine list was expensive; I didn't notice a glass for under $10. We decided to conserve our cash for the edibles, which looked promising. The appetizer menu included a "South Asian lumpia" and phyllo-wrapped vegetables with tomato confit. My friend ordered the satay, which consisted of a tumble of sesame noodles topped with two skewers of grilled seitan in lieu of meat. Although the flavor of the grill was not apparent, the texture of the seitan was similar to that of meat, if a bit chewier.
As there was obviously no cheese in the salads, the chef had been creative with tempeh and tofu to approximate its salty, pungent flavor. In my friend's salad of field greens, grilled pears and candied walnuts, the crispy tofu cubes served this purpose. My salad was a plate of baby spinach leaves coated with plenty of horseradish dressing, red onions, tempeh "croutons," pumpkin seeds, and sliced wild mushrooms.
I had thought about ordering the pumpkin gnocchi with melted leeks for my entree, but instead went with the seitan "medallions" in a caper sauce with herbed soft polenta and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was very garlicky and tasty, but the polenta was bland and not particularly herby. (I guess I'm one of those people who thinks that polenta needs butter and cheese.) The seitan adequately absorbed the light caper sauce (by itself, seitan is rather tasteless, being comprised of wheat gluten).
Although we had no room for dessert, I was sufficiently tempted by the dessert menu to visit Blossom again. (Pineapple crepes with coconut milk infusion, chocolate ganache torte, yum!)
Blossom: 187 9th Ave., (212) 627-1144.
The wine list was expensive; I didn't notice a glass for under $10. We decided to conserve our cash for the edibles, which looked promising. The appetizer menu included a "South Asian lumpia" and phyllo-wrapped vegetables with tomato confit. My friend ordered the satay, which consisted of a tumble of sesame noodles topped with two skewers of grilled seitan in lieu of meat. Although the flavor of the grill was not apparent, the texture of the seitan was similar to that of meat, if a bit chewier.
As there was obviously no cheese in the salads, the chef had been creative with tempeh and tofu to approximate its salty, pungent flavor. In my friend's salad of field greens, grilled pears and candied walnuts, the crispy tofu cubes served this purpose. My salad was a plate of baby spinach leaves coated with plenty of horseradish dressing, red onions, tempeh "croutons," pumpkin seeds, and sliced wild mushrooms.
I had thought about ordering the pumpkin gnocchi with melted leeks for my entree, but instead went with the seitan "medallions" in a caper sauce with herbed soft polenta and broccoli rabe. The broccoli rabe was very garlicky and tasty, but the polenta was bland and not particularly herby. (I guess I'm one of those people who thinks that polenta needs butter and cheese.) The seitan adequately absorbed the light caper sauce (by itself, seitan is rather tasteless, being comprised of wheat gluten).
Although we had no room for dessert, I was sufficiently tempted by the dessert menu to visit Blossom again. (Pineapple crepes with coconut milk infusion, chocolate ganache torte, yum!)
Blossom: 187 9th Ave., (212) 627-1144.
Friday, March 24, 2006
Prem-On Thai and Sweet Melissa
It's never been a better time to be hungry on Houston Street, with the amazing lunch special at Prem-On Thai and the goodies at the nearby Sweet Melissa. (How did this branch of the Brooklyn bakery manage to escape my purview?)
I'd intended to lunch at the Le Pain Quotidien on West 8th, but every seat was taken by NYU. So, I walked over to Ushiwakamaru to see if they were open, but apparently they only serve dinner. Prem-On Thai next door, with its chic marble tables full of satisfied-seeming people, beckoned to me.
I was happy to see that Prem-On's lunch includes both an appetizer and an entree. For $7, I got two crunchy vermicelli-bean spring rolls and a delicious tofu curry with crispy and soft noodles. The egg noodles were a hidden treasure underneath the tofu, and all was smothered in a creamy coconut-turmeric sauce. Pickled greens and red onions provided a nice touch of sour and spice.
Although I toyed with the idea of ordering a trio of Thai creme brulee (lotus seed, Thai tea and ginger), I decided to be virtuous. That cause was lost the second I laid eyes on Sweet Melissa. What should I have, I wondered, and then came the more deviant thought: what shouldn't I have. I left with a Valrhona brownie, a Key lime tart decorated with sliced kiwi, one of the chocolate souffle cakes I remembered with such fondness from the Brooklyn store, a citrus chevre cheesecake and a dense chocolate peanut butter treat. So much for "no dessert!"
Prem-On Thai: 138 West Houston St., (212) 353-2338. Sweet Melissa (Manhattan): 75 West Houston St., (347) 594-2541.
I'd intended to lunch at the Le Pain Quotidien on West 8th, but every seat was taken by NYU. So, I walked over to Ushiwakamaru to see if they were open, but apparently they only serve dinner. Prem-On Thai next door, with its chic marble tables full of satisfied-seeming people, beckoned to me.
I was happy to see that Prem-On's lunch includes both an appetizer and an entree. For $7, I got two crunchy vermicelli-bean spring rolls and a delicious tofu curry with crispy and soft noodles. The egg noodles were a hidden treasure underneath the tofu, and all was smothered in a creamy coconut-turmeric sauce. Pickled greens and red onions provided a nice touch of sour and spice.
Although I toyed with the idea of ordering a trio of Thai creme brulee (lotus seed, Thai tea and ginger), I decided to be virtuous. That cause was lost the second I laid eyes on Sweet Melissa. What should I have, I wondered, and then came the more deviant thought: what shouldn't I have. I left with a Valrhona brownie, a Key lime tart decorated with sliced kiwi, one of the chocolate souffle cakes I remembered with such fondness from the Brooklyn store, a citrus chevre cheesecake and a dense chocolate peanut butter treat. So much for "no dessert!"
Prem-On Thai: 138 West Houston St., (212) 353-2338. Sweet Melissa (Manhattan): 75 West Houston St., (347) 594-2541.
Tuesday, March 21, 2006
Kanoyama
I made a happy discovery tonight at Kanoyama: the early-bird special. It includes such entrees as tempura don, salmon roe and sea urchin over rice, and eel over rice. I ordered the tekka don: rosy-pink slices of tuna blanketing perfectly vinegared sushi rice, accompanied by a romaine salad with mellow carrot-ginger dressing, two kinds of pickles, smoky bonito miso soup, sweet hijiki carrot salad, two slices of omelette sushi, and the Japanese version of potato salad (full of cucumbers and onions). All for $14!
Kanoyama: 175 2nd Ave., (212) 777-5266. The early-bird dinner is served until 7 p.m. on the weekdays and 8 p.m. on the weekends.
Kanoyama: 175 2nd Ave., (212) 777-5266. The early-bird dinner is served until 7 p.m. on the weekdays and 8 p.m. on the weekends.
Saturday, March 11, 2006
Cheeks Bakery (CLOSED)
Are you the sort of sweets lover who welcomes butter but abhors trans fats? If so, you'll be delighted by this new Williamsburg bakery. Open just 3 weeks, Cheeks Bakery sells delicious goods which are made exclusively with organic eggs and rBst-free milk. Owner Melanie explains, "If I always eat organic eggs myself, why shouldn't I also use them in products for my customers? It's the right thing to do." Melanie's passion for high quality ingredients is showcased in chocolate-banana bundt cakes, blackberry-buttermilk muffins, coconut cake with lime syrup, vanilla bean cheesecake, and for those who prefer the savory to the sweet, herb quiche!
Cheeks Bakery: 378 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn, 718-599-3583.
Cheeks Bakery: 378 Metropolitan Ave., Brooklyn, 718-599-3583.
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